Stephen Travels


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Dinner With a Mexican-Honduran Flair

Chela's Latin Cuisine, Tucson, ArizonaChela’s Latin Cuisine was ready for Halloween. Spiders climbed along the walls, cobwebs fluttered in the air being stirred by the air-conditioning, and skeletons saluted and waved to you (or beckoned you, if you’re in a darker mood). I had a feeling that any other holiday—or any regular day, for that matter—would be just as festive. A new addition to the downtown Tucson restaurant scene, Chela’s serves up a great Mexican-Honduran menu, served by some pleasantly chatty waiters. Read about it >


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Eating Local in Luxembourg

Um Dierfgen, LuxembourgI headed past the Ducal Palace in Luxembourg City for just a couple of blocks and arrived at my destination. I was hunting for a restaurant with traditional Luxembourgish dishes, and Um Dierfgen was touted as one of the best. I easily located the beige building flying the national flag and entered the refined rustic interior, and I quickly learned that the restaurant’s excellent reputation was well-earned. Read about it >


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A Marvelous Middle Eastern and Mediterranean Meal—in the Heart of Luxembourg

Bazaar, Luxembourg CityI liked the building. I liked its location. I liked what I saw through its windows. And I liked what I read on the menu outside. Although it was an unusual place for my first meal in Luxembourg City, Bazaar—with its Mediterranean and Middle Eastern flavors—was irresistible. Result? I definitely liked my choice. Read about it >


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Everyting Is Irie in Richmond, Mon

My first few nights and early mornings in Richmond, Virginia, were shockingly cold for early November. That put me in the mood for something warm and cozy for dinner. And I found it on a quiet corner of downtown in the form of Irie Ting Jamaican Grill. Read about it >


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Lunch at the Lake of Love

Frans Restaurant, Bruges, BelgiumThe historic core of Bruges, Belgium, one of the best preserved medieval cities in Europe, throbs with tourists throughout the day. I was still confronting packed restaurants and cafés, waffle and chocolate shops, even at the southern edges of the core. But then I spied a romantic waterside castle, with outdoor tables that didn’t seem overly populated. The umbrellas indicated food service, so I crossed a little bridge and was soon enjoying a tasty lunch at Minnewater Castle along the Lake of Love. Read about it >


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Belgian Specialties at Balto’s

Balto's, Antwerp, BelgiumIt’s a little touristy, but it’s touristy for a reason—the Grote Markt (Large Market) at the heart of Antwerp is simply gorgeous. Guild houses from the 16th and 17th centuries frame the cobblestone square, anchored by the impressive City Hall and featuring the curious Brabo’s Monument and Fountain, with the massive Cathedral of Our Lady overlooking it all from a couple of blocks away. There are plenty of restaurants here to choose from, each with outdoor seating, partially covered for inclement weather and open-air for days when you just want to linger outside. I was here for dinner, and I happily settled in at Balto’s, located in a beautifully restored historic manor house. Read about it >


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¡Viva España!—in Belgium

Hispania, Brussels, BelgiumAcross the cobblestone street from a church completed in the 15th century and next to a Belgian chocolate shop, I headed to dinner during my second night in Brussels at the internationally recognized and lauded Hispania, an upscale Spanish restaurant with a fine pedigree, including the Michelin-star chef. There would be plenty of time for Belgian waffles, beer, chocolate, and other national specialties later on, but this night was all about Spain. Read about it >


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Snack Time

CupCake Omaha!, Omaha, NebraskaAt some point during the day, you’re feeling peckish. It’s too early or late for a full meal, but you want something to tide you over while you go on the next hike or visit the next cathedral. For me, these unanticipated little hunger pangs occur suddenly, and that’s when I just start looking around for whatever’s at hand that seems like it would fit the bill. In this way, I’ve discovered some local places that I easily would have overlooked—and that I heartily recommend. Read about them >


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Back to Basics at Café Leffe

Café Leffe, Brussels, BelgiumThe rain had been falling on and off all day, an ongoing source of irritation as one struggles with map, camera, and umbrella. By the end of the unseasonably chilly day in Brussels, I was ready for solid, straightforward comfort food as close as possible to my hotel. I was staying at 9Hotel Sablon in the Sablon neighborhood, and just around the corner, at the end of the cobblestone Place du Grand Sablon, I found what I was looking for at Café Leffe. Read about it >


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Once Bitten, Twice Shy: How a Restaurant in Richmond Redeemed Ethiopian Food for Me

Addis Ethiopian Restaurant, Richmond, VirginiaI had eaten Ethiopian food only once, in Washington, D.C. (often ranked as one of the best U.S. cities for this cuisine), and, frankly, it was gross. But that was three decades ago, so when I came across Addis Ethiopian Restaurant in Richmond, Virginia, I was eager (and a bit apprehensive) to give it a second chance to cure my aversion. Read about it >