By accident, I stumbled upon La Grotta, occupying the ground floor of the former flagship location of Miller & Rhoads Department Store, which shuttered all of its stores in 1990. With no dinner plans this evening, it seemed like a fortuitous happenstance, so I acted on impulse and headed inside.

I was escorted to a cozy table next to the bar and took a good look around. Strings of white lights make it a festive place, even when it’s not a holiday, and the chandelier of upside-down wine glasses is creative. The wait staff, dressed in white shirts and black pants and ties, worked amicably and professionally among the diners who were beginning to fill the place. A waiter handed me a truly drool-worthy and diverse menu and presented me with a selection of fresh breads.

While contemplating both, I had the opportunity to learn more about this great Northern Italian restaurant. Native Italian owner and chef Antonio Capece brought his skills and passion to the United States in 1987 and settled into the Richmond culinary scene with his manager/wife in 1991. He opened his business in 1994 and christened it “La Grotta” (The Cave). Indeed, it does hint at a wine cellar, with its rows of wine racks, dark woods, octagon-tile floor, and exposed brick walls. That elegant and unpretentious décor complements the menu perfectly, and you know you’ll soon be enjoying one of Richmond’s premiere dining experiences.

Try This: If the soup of the day is the wonderful vegetarian lentil soup, that’s your choice. All of the homemade pastas sound excellent, but for my main course, I couldn’t resist the roasted boneless quail stuffed with Italian pork fennel sausage and fresh sage in natural pan juices, oven-baked with butter and parmesan cheese. Side dishes change regularly; mine took the form of flavorful greens and mashed potatoes topped with a delicate fried potato waffle chip.

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