Night had fallen by the time I emerged from St. Mary Magdalene Church, where I had just enjoyed a mostly Chopin concert, during which one pianist played for 40 minutes straight without sheet music or a single misfire (at least, as far as I could tell). All that classical Polish music put me in the mood for a traditional Polish dinner.
I headed to Market Square, just a handful of blocks away, where the options for dinner are plentiful. Consistently ranked among the 100 best restaurants in Poland, Pod Fredra delivers solid Polish favorites enjoyed by locals and travelers alike. Make the difficult choice of sitting inside amid the cozy rustic setting with oak booths and tables, live music, and an assortment of bric-a-brac on the walls and shelves, or outside, where you can enjoy the fair weather; the myriad street performers, from violinists to flame dancers; and the beautiful architecture of the surrounding buildings (all painted in pleasing pastel colors), including the striking Town Hall next door, glimpsed through the hanging plants and flowers. Either way, the setting provides a wonderful backdrop to a deliciously hearty meal.
Try This: Select a glass of wine from the impressively long list, or sample some homemade Polish honey mead. On a comfortably cool night, warm up with traditional sour-rye soup in a bread bowl with an egg and white sausage, or try the country Polish ham with red beetroot. Then tuck into some very filling pierogi with potato, cheese, and bacon, or savor the charcoal-grilled goose breast marinated in herbs. For dessert, the pancake with walnuts and hot chocolate or the Galician cheesecake with hot raspberry sauce are great options to end your meal.