Stephen Travels

And he's ready to take you with him.


Leave a comment

Standing Tall: The World’s Best Columns

Illyrian Column, Ljubljana, SloveniaThey’re Doric, Ionic, Corinthian, Tuscan, smooth or fluted, singular or clustered. Their capitals can resemble anything from acanthus leaves to volutes. And when they’re not supporting entire buildings, giving the appearance of such on a building’s façade, or forming an arcade, columns often sprout up as stand-alone structures. These engaging specimens of verticality, whether they’re slender or bold, have always caught my eye (whether or not I’m able to climb to their tops). Read about the world’s top five columns >


Leave a comment

Which Last Suppers Are First?

Last Supper, National Museum, Warsaw, PolandAs Easter approaches, Christianity’s most important holidays and events unfold at a breakneck pace: Jesus’ Condemnation, Crucifixion, Disposition, and Entombment (all represented in the Stations of the Cross), and Resurrection. It all starts with the Last Supper, when Jesus gathered his 12 Apostles for a final meal, called out Peter as His soon-to-be denier, and basically let Judas identify himself as His imminent betrayer. For centuries, this momentous meal has been captured in art, and I’ve seen it depicted in all kinds of media around the world. Read about the top five depictions of the Last Supper >


Leave a comment

Colorado’s Architectural Diversity

Mayan Theater, Denver, ColoradoI was spending a lot of time outdoors in Colorado, hiking in the incomparable Rocky Mountains, driving up Pikes Peak Highway until I hit a wall of snow, and occasionally crossing paths with some animals roaming around, sniffing out lunch. When I emerged from nature into the state’s urban areas, I was equally captivated by Colorado’s architecture. From a hotel good enough for the Queen of Romania and the Beatles to a Venetian-style tower, from a Tajik teahouse to a Mayan-inspired theater, Colorado boasts an unexpected diversity in its architecture. Read about the top five buildings in Colorado >


Leave a comment

Seafood in Middle America

I was 482 miles from the nearest ocean, smack in the middle of Indiana. That didn’t seem to make a difference at Raw Bar by Slapfish in Indianapolis, where the menu teems with oysters, lobster, mussels, shrimp, and crab. Amid that bounty of surf, there’s also some turf. And that’s what makes this restaurant a favorite not only of pescatarians of all stripes but also of those who want to see more than seafood. Read about it >


Leave a comment

The Best of Florida’s Churches

Memorial Presbyterian Church, St. Augustine, FloridaConsidering that Florida was claimed for the Spanish crown and received its name from “Pasqua Florida” (Easter Flower), and that the oldest continuously occupied settlement of European origin (founded in 1565, way before Plymouth Rock) was named for a Christian saint (St. Augustine), it’s no wonder that I came across plenty of beautiful churches across the state. When you’re traveling around the Sunshine State, you’ll want to duck into these structures, not only to escape the heat and humidity, but also to admire some beautiful art and architecture and to experience some very long histories. Read about the top five churches in Florida >


Leave a comment

Riverfront Respite in Harrisburg, Pennsylvania

Rescued from the threat of demolition fewer than 20 years ago, a pair of next-door-neighbor mansions from the 1920s emerged in 2015 as the premier riverfront bed and breakfast along Front Street in Harrisburg, Pennsylvania. The Manor on Front provides indulgent comforts (there are lots of cozy spaces for catnaps), outstanding breakfasts, and convivial hosts who ensure that your stay here is, just like mine, exceptional. Read about it >


Leave a comment

Passionate Art From a Passionate Man: Caravaggio’s Best Works

Narcissus, by CaravaggioHis art was as enthralling as his life. His paintings, always on canvas, were revolutionary. A master of chiaroscuro and realism, Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio ushered in a dramatic new style of art in the late 1500s and early 1600s that mesmerized some and appalled others, but which established him as one of the leading Baroque artists of his era. How he found time to create such an impressive œuvre amazes me: Caravaggio spent much of his time brawling, carousing, and bouncing around the Mediterranean, from his hometown of Milan to Rome to Naples to Malta to Sicily and back to Italy, being imprisoned, fleeing from a death sentence and warrants for his arrest for manslaughter and assault, and being expelled from the Knights of Malta after a membership of only half a year. And he did all of that by the time he died under mysterious circumstances at age 38. He left behind an impressive canon that easily established himself as one of my favorite artists—but one who was nearly forgotten for centuries. Read about my top five works by Caravaggio >


Leave a comment

Lest We Forget, Indianapolis Makes Sure We Remember

Shrine Room, Indiana World War MemorialIn a city filled with historic memorials and monuments, the Indiana World War Memorial stands proudly in the heart of Indianapolis. This monumental structure, built to honor Indiana Hoosiers who served in the war to end all wars, is a crowning achievement of architecture, thoughtful detail, patriotism, history, and humanity. And it left me rather speechless from the moment I saw it. Read more about it >


Leave a comment

Mesh Makes a Magnificent Mix in Indianapolis

Mesh, IndianapolisOn the recommendation of the friendly folks at the visitor center in Indianapolis, Indiana, I headed to an early dinner at Mesh. The name truly reflects the cuisine, a creative blend of ingredients that you may not intuitively combine, but, once assembled, transform into an excellent meal. Read about it >


Leave a comment

British Columbia’s Best Buildings

Sun Tower, Vancouver, British ColumbiaFrom its rugged Pacific coastline to its dramatic Rocky Mountain spine, British Columbia is one heck of a beautiful Canadian province, ideal for athletes and nature lovers. But urbanites shouldn’t feel excluded in this vast, wild region. They’ll feel right at home in the two largest cities, Vancouver and Victoria, that teem with cultural events as well as some impressive architecture. Read about the top five buildings in British Columbia >