Stephen Travels


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Fountains of Beauty

As summer temperatures soar, a fountain—whether it’s trickling or gushing—can help you beat the heat, especially in urban environments, where concrete and tar make increasingly angry thermometers seem even more oppressive. The care, attention, and craftmanship of many fountains add to the relief these enchanting oases provide, and give you something very pretty to look at and contemplate while misty sprays cool you down a bit. Read about the top five fountains >


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Mama Monica Taught Her Sons Well

Monica's Trattoria, Boston, Massachusetts

Boston has the best, most authentic Little Italy I’ve ever been to. So, when I found myself there on an early Sunday afternoon, I channeled my Italian heritage and tradition of having Sunday dinner at about 1 p.m. and strolled into Monica’s Trattoria. Opened three decades ago by Monica’s sons, this warm, friendly restaurant serves up love in every delectable bite. Read about it >


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Dinner With a Side of History in Antwerp

If you’re hungry for both food and history when you’re in Antwerp, Belgium, then head directly to Hulstkamp. Just a couple of blocks from one of the world’s most beautiful train stations, this outstanding restaurant has been around for more than a century. You don’t achieve that kind of longevity without offering something special. Read about it >


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Building Britain

Charlotte Square, Edinburgh, Scotland

Apparently, architecture was in his blood. His father was an architect, as was his older brother (and his younger brother, too). So, when Robert Adam needed to select a career, his choice was obvious. And Great Britain is the better for his decision to go into the family business. At least half a dozen of his works have been demolished since his death in 1792, but more than that remain, and I had the honor of seeing many of them as I traveled around Scotland and England. Read about the top five works by Robert Adam >


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Eating Well, Doing Good

Legal Sea Foods, Boston, Massachusetts

Overfishing is a global problem that is decimating fish and seafood stocks in our oceans, seas, lakes, and rivers. Legal Sea Foods, born in Boston in 1950, is doing its part to combat the growing issue by supporting the New England fishing community, prioritizing seasonal seafood, and engaging in responsible sourcing. The restaurant also contributes generously to local nonprofits. Its motto, “If it isn’t fresh, it isn’t legal!” is spot on—terrific seafood ethically caught. Read about it >


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Rise and Shine at King & Rye

Located on the ground floor of The Alexandrian Hotel, King & Rye prides itself on seasonal slow food, genuine Southern hospitality, and “damn fine whiskey.” Many of its ingredients are sourced through real relationships with farmers, makers, and butchers. And if you just came from the Old Town Farmers’ Market across the street, you’ll find some of those ingredients in your brunch selections on a lazy Saturday morning. Read about it >


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Wondrous Wreckage

Linlithgow Palace, Linlithgow, Scotland

Ruins have always fascinated me. What was this place, or building, or bridge, or sometimes an entire city? What was it like when it was still functional and vibrant? What happened there? Who lived there? What was its function? What triggered its demise? Littered all around the world, ruins are quite enthralling, no matter how big or small, from the bell tower of St. Magdalene Mary in Budapest, for example, to the eerily silent columns at Windsor Plantation in Port Gibson, Mississippi. When I visit them, I’m always in awe of their stories and their ability to hang on in the face of natural and manmade forces that continually eat away at them. Read about the top five ruins >


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Tempe Temptations

Harry's Place, Tempe, Arizona

Except for the incessant planes thundering by directly overhead, Tempe Mission Palms (in Tempe, Arizona, just about four miles from the crazy-busy Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport) is a wonderful place to stay, for several reasons—perfect location in Tempe, comfortable rooms, rooftop pool, fine service. It also offers an excellent restaurant, Harry’s Place, a great destination for dinner after you’ve been exploring Arizona for three solid weeks and still have lots of packing to do before you return home the next morning. Read about it >


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A Menu of Modern Mexican Masterpieces in Hartford

Agave Grill, Hartford, Connecticut

With a large Latino population in Hartford, Connecticut, I knew I’d be able to find some wonderful ethnic restaurants. On my first night in town, I had some flavorful Peruvian fare. Now, on my last night, I headed for Mexican food at Agave Grill, where the spirits, both literal and figurative, flow nicely. Read about it >


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Excellent Italian Food With a Uniquely American Story

Il Porto Ristorante, Alexandria, Virginia

Dinner always tastes better when it comes with a great story. At Il Porto Ristorante, a beacon for authentic Northern Italian food in Alexandria, Virginia, your excellent meal is served with a hefty dose of history—you’ll be dining in a building that was a sea captain’s house, a brothel, a secret distillery, a butcher shop, a speakeasy, and a Nazi radio network. Read about it >