After a wonderful steak dinner at Alma de Cuba the night before, I turned to the sea for my next evening meal in Philadelphia. Upon entering Devon Seafood Grill, the hostess led me past the busy marble-top bar into a large room with commodious booths, dark wood, and a barrel-vaulted ceiling with herringbone brick tiles. A waiter quickly approached me as I settled in, handed me a menu, and commented on the unseasonable heat outside. When I asked what he would do in July, he said, in all seriousness, “I’ll probably die.” I chuckled at his melodrama, noting that the perfect temperature inside the restaurant would keep him alive for at least a few more hours, and then turned my attention to the tempting selection presented before me.

Try This: A complementary—and excellent—cheddar biscuit with maple syrup butter is a wonderful introduction to your meal, and a particularly strong ginger ale will quench any thirst you have. Start with the terrific goat cheese bruschetta with a tomato-basil cruda, focaccia crisps, and kalamata olives. For your main course, you’ll like the grilled trout, roasted brussels sprouts with prosciutto, and delicious lemon-asparagus risotto, or perhaps the grilled Atlantic salmon with lobster beurre blanc, parmesan roasted yukon gold potatoes, and watercress salad. End your meal on a sweet note with the peanut butter chocolate torte: peanut butter sandwiched between a pretzel toffee crust and a sea salt chocolate ganache, drizzled with caramel sauce.