Fine dining it’s not. But Ganter Brauereiausschank doesn’t bill itself as anything except what it is — a local restaurant and bierhaus that serves up traditional German meals in a merry atmosphere. You don’t come here for a romantic dinner, some lightweight salad, or a frilly little cocktail. You’re here for a filling meal of serious comfort food and good beer with friends.

All the tables were occupied when I entered, so I hoisted myself onto the last available stool at the bar, surrounded by lots of wood — tables, chairs, walls, ceilings. Busy waitresses clad in dirndls oscillated between the kitchen and the hungry patrons, usually balancing a few mugs of beer on their trays. Although the menu was available in six languages, locals preponderated tourists by a good margin, making me feel confident that I had selected an authentic rustic eatery to satisfy my appetite.

Try This: Select one of the dozen or so beers on tap — the Ganter Pilsner or the Badisch Weizen Pale Filtered Wheat Beer is particularly nice. The menu is a long list of gustable options that are heavy on regional classics, such as broiled brisket of beef with horseradish sauce, boiled potatoes, and beetroot salad, and cheese noodles with friend onions. I opted, however, for one of “grandmother’s recipes”: crusted pork roast in a dark beer sauce with potato dumplings and mixed vegetables. For dessert, the Black Forest cup, with cherries, chocolate, and cream, is the perfect way to seal the meal in a very German fashion.