The pleasant evening tempted me to take a vacant table outside the Ristorante da Pancrazio, but cigarette smoke from other diners convinced me to sit inside, which turned out to be a fortuitous decision.

Built over the ruins of the Theater of Pompey, the theater from the first century B.C. where Julius Caesar was assassinated (via 23 dagger stabs), this restaurant has been serving, and pleasing, its customers since 1922 with Roman cuisine from around the same era. The interior is a wonderfully atmospheric space, with wood-beam ceilings and brick arches. Lanterns and lovely murals adorn the walls. Off to the side, plenty of very dusty bottles of wine stock the shelves of the wine room, suggesting a deep and rich inventory of the grape. It’s the perfect setting to enjoy a fine Italian meal.

Try This: Start sipping your glass of a full-bodied red wine as you select the components of your meal. Begin with the delicious creamy and savory cannelloni stuffed with beef and vegetables. Next, enjoy the perfectly prepared braciole rolls, spiraled around ham, carrots, peas, and celery, in a fresh tomato sauce. For dessert, savor a not-too-sweet pear cake with cinnamon.