Italian heart, Portuguese soul. That’s how Ris8tto regards itself.

I had passed by this restaurant daily, on my way to and from my hotel, Infante Sagres. The name intrigued me. I liked the playful use of the “8” that replaced the middle “o,” riffing on the Italian otto, for eight, and its similar sound in the final syllable of risotto.

Every time I strolled by it, Ris8tto was filled to capacity. So on the night I chose to dine there, I headed over a little early to make sure I could nab a table. The narrow interior is a little claustrophobic, with one long family-style table, and a few barstools at window seating, and the table was already reserved for a large party. I fared better outside, but barely—Ris8tto started turning people away only 15 minutes after I arrived, or telling prospective customers that there would be a long wait. The popularity is well deserved. Ris8tto does, indeed, combine its home country’s soul with a specialty of its Mediterranean neighbor, and it does so beautifully.

Try This: Order a glass of white wine from Portugal’s Douro Valley region. Start with a charcuterie board of thinly sliced braciola with arugula, capers, and shavings of Grana Padano cheese, served with warm and crusty bread drizzled with olive oil. Then select from more than a dozen risotto dishes. I went with the rustic risotto, a wonderfully comforting and filling meal combining creamy arborio rice, chicken, mushrooms, and parsley.

 

 

 

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