Stephen Travels


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It’s Czech, Mate

Koliba, Queens, New York

Although I’ve read plenty of travel blogs and watched an abundance of videos produced by fellow travelers, I never witnessed one creating the content in person. At Koliba in Queens, New York, I got to watch one in action—a Slovakian internet personality practicing his lines and his one-man crew handling the lights, camera, and sound. The rehearsal and taping were interesting to observe as I enjoyed an excellent, and very filling meal, at this Czechoslovak restaurant—but it was also odd: Although I watched the entire taping, they never talked about the restaurant (except for its name and location), the food, or the service. I, of course, will. Read about it >


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Greek Goodness in Cambridge

Saloniki Greek, Cambridge, Massachusetts

Exploring Harvard University in Cambridge, Massachusetts, can certainly build up an appetite, what with its Museum of Natural History, Art Museums, libraries with special exhibits, and lovely campus. When you’re ready for dinner, you’ll find Saloniki Greek, just a block or two away from campus, popular with locals and students (and not just those earning degrees in Modern Greek studies, a program that began in 1828 when Harvard hired the first professor of Modern Greek). The only thing you’ll study at this restaurant, however, is, of course, the very tempting menu. Read about it >


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The Best of Bruges’ Churches

St. Anne's Church, Bruges, BelgiumFor more than a millennium, Bruges’ churches have been active centers of religious life. Through centuries of expansion, fires, destruction, the Iconoclasm, and resurrection, these Belgian churches have survived and persevered, and they remain an integral part of the local scene today for anyone visiting this iconic city. Read about the top five churches in Bruges >


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Dinner With a Side of History in Antwerp

If you’re hungry for both food and history when you’re in Antwerp, Belgium, then head directly to Hulstkamp. Just a couple of blocks from one of the world’s most beautiful train stations, this outstanding restaurant has been around for more than a century. You don’t achieve that kind of longevity without offering something special. Read about it >


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Building Britain

Charlotte Square, Edinburgh, Scotland

Apparently, architecture was in his blood. His father was an architect, as was his older brother (and his younger brother, too). So, when Robert Adam needed to select a career, his choice was obvious. And Great Britain is the better for his decision to go into the family business. At least half a dozen of his works have been demolished since his death in 1792, but more than that remain, and I had the honor of seeing many of them as I traveled around Scotland and England. Read about the top five works by Robert Adam >


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Eating Well, Doing Good

Legal Sea Foods, Boston, Massachusetts

Overfishing is a global problem that is decimating fish and seafood stocks in our oceans, seas, lakes, and rivers. Legal Sea Foods, born in Boston in 1950, is doing its part to combat the growing issue by supporting the New England fishing community, prioritizing seasonal seafood, and engaging in responsible sourcing. The restaurant also contributes generously to local nonprofits. Its motto, “If it isn’t fresh, it isn’t legal!” is spot on—terrific seafood ethically caught. Read about it >


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Wondrous Wreckage

Linlithgow Palace, Linlithgow, Scotland

Ruins have always fascinated me. What was this place, or building, or bridge, or sometimes an entire city? What was it like when it was still functional and vibrant? What happened there? Who lived there? What was its function? What triggered its demise? Littered all around the world, ruins are quite enthralling, no matter how big or small, from the bell tower of St. Magdalene Mary in Budapest, for example, to the eerily silent columns at Windsor Plantation in Port Gibson, Mississippi. When I visit them, I’m always in awe of their stories and their ability to hang on in the face of natural and manmade forces that continually eat away at them. Read about the top five ruins >


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Tempe Temptations

Harry's Place, Tempe, Arizona

Except for the incessant planes thundering by directly overhead, Tempe Mission Palms (in Tempe, Arizona, just about four miles from the crazy-busy Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport) is a wonderful place to stay, for several reasons—perfect location in Tempe, comfortable rooms, rooftop pool, fine service. It also offers an excellent restaurant, Harry’s Place, a great destination for dinner after you’ve been exploring Arizona for three solid weeks and still have lots of packing to do before you return home the next morning. Read about it >


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A Menu of Modern Mexican Masterpieces in Hartford

Agave Grill, Hartford, Connecticut

With a large Latino population in Hartford, Connecticut, I knew I’d be able to find some wonderful ethnic restaurants. On my first night in town, I had some flavorful Peruvian fare. Now, on my last night, I headed for Mexican food at Agave Grill, where the spirits, both literal and figurative, flow nicely. Read about it >


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The Ornateness of Porto’s Best Churches

Chapel of Souls, Porto, PortugalAbout 80% of the population of Porto, Portugal, identifies as Catholic. For those who practice their faith, they get to choose from 30 main churches in which to do it. These stretch back centuries, the oldest of which is nearing its 1,000th birthday. I had the good fortune to visit many of them as I hiked up and down the city’s hilly streets and passageways, never failing to be impressed by their often-extravagant interiors. Read about the top five churches in Porto >