On a blustery day in Hartford, I bypassed the outdoor seating at Sorella and escaped the gusts inside. My table offered me lots of visual stimulation—the Boston Celtics game on the television over the bar that could comfortably seat a dozen people, the black-and-white photos on the walls of the owner’s Italian family that would be similar to those of any other Italian family in their own photo albums from the 1950s, and the great round tiled pizza oven toward the rear. While listening to the background music set at the ideal volume, I also received plenty of stimulation from the menu. And it delivered on every level, served by a friendly staff.

Try This: Start with a great cocktail from the bar, like the Pratt Street Mai Tai—plantation pineapple, dark and original rums, orange juice, L’Orgeat Almond Liqueur, Luxardo Cherry Liqueur, lime-pineapple juice, and triple sec. For an appetizer, don’t miss the beef, pork, and veal meatballs with marinara sauce and Pecorino Romano cheese—but be warned, they’re gargantuan! For your main course, the house-made ricotta gnocchi with braised chicken, roasted tomatoes, cream, and basil pesto is pure comfort food at its best.

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