Just a couple of blocks from one of the world’s most beautiful train stations, along a bustling commercial street, I was hunting for a restaurant for dinner. The choices here are plentiful, but I wasn’t in the mood for Argentinian or Italian food, or ramen. I wanted something local, and I found it at Hulstkamp.

Early in the 20th century, the De Keyserlei street boomed, what with the city’s expansion, the completion of Central Station, and the arrival of electricity. Cinemas, cabarets, cafés, and restaurants proliferated. In 1901, an innkeeper’s widow merged two adjacent buildings and put up a new façade, and in 1907 the Dutch gin distillery Hulstkamp opened a café-restaurant here. Young artists—painters, writers, poets—began to flock here for debates and creative outlets. It was so popular with one Belgian poet that letters sent to him were addressed to the restaurant. By the 1990s, however, the area declined, businesses closed, storefronts became abandoned, and Hulstkamp’s quality and reputation sank. That changed when a new owner took over and restored the interior to the city’s Belle Epoque, including the original chairs that were found in the attic. Once again, Hulstkamp is a household name in Antwerp for all the right reasons.

I sat at the front of the restaurant next to the huge open window that let in a cool breeze (and the occasional whiff of cigarette smoke from the numerous patrons enjoying the outdoor seating area). The large interior, complete with a full bar and furnished with lots of wood and mirrors, is a comfortable space, filled with an attentive wait staff and the strains of Lionel Richie, Heart, and The Drifters. It’s a wonderful setting to enjoy a great meal served with a terrific side of history.

Try This: The succulent pork tenderloin with a touch of sea salt is an excellent choice. It’s served with croquettes with Iberico ham and skinny (and very flavorful) string beans, accompanied by a tangy mustard sauce. For dessert, choose the epitome of Belgian options: the waffle. Here, the banana royale waffle, dusted with powdered sugar, is topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and an abundance of sliced bananas, with warm chocolate syrup on the side.

 

 

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