Stephen Travels


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Marvelous Madison

Thai Pavilion, Olbrich Gardens, Madison, WisconsinOften ranked as one of the most livable cities in the United States, Madison, Wisconsin, gets it very right, which catapults onto a short list of places I’d like to live: a gorgeous setting between two lakes, a lively vibe generated from a massive university and as the state capital, plenty of cultural venues, and a smart restriction on the height of its skyline, limited to no more than 1,032’ for all structures within a mile of the state capitol in order to preserve the view of that building from most parts of the city. That means it’s a low-rise city, and it’s filled with terrific edifices of both historic importance and aesthetic glory. Read about the top five buildings in Madison, Wisconsin >


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Autumn in One of America’s Most Beautiful National Parks

Signal Mountain Lodge, Moran, WyomingKids were back in school, summer vacations were over, and the temperatures were cooling to my sweet spot: low 60s during the day, dipping down to the 40s at night. It was late September, and I had just spent a few days in Yellowstone National Park before heading south to Grand Teton National Park. I found it difficult to find the mot juste that would adequately describe the beauty of this park; I kept coming up short. Ultimately, I settled on “perfect,” the only word that could do Grand Teton justice. Read about it >


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Arkansas’ Attractive Architecture

Army-Navy Hospital, Hot Springs, ArkansasI wasn’t planning on spending much time in Arkansas’ cities. I was there to take part in the state’s wonderful nature, at its most irresistible during the fall foliage season. I was staying in Hot Springs more for its central location and proximity to Hot Springs National Park than for its built-up environment. How surprised I was, however, when I came upon some outstanding edifices that wonderfully complemented all my time out in the woods and on lakes. Read about the top five buildings in Arkansas >


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When Your College Dorm Used to Be a Hotel for the Super Rich

Dining Room, Flagler CollegeOn my way to a wedding farther south in Florida, I stopped for a few days in St. Augustine, one of that spectacular triumvirate of architecturally grand cities in the Southeast. I had already been to Charleston, South Carolina, and I’ve been to Savannah, Georgia, three times. St. Augustine, the oldest city in the United States (founded in 1565), was the standout, and I was thrilled to finally visit it. One of its many highlights is the incredible main building of Flagler College. Formerly a majestic hotel, it now functions mostly as a dorm. It’s still so beautiful that it offers tours not only to prospective students, but to the general public, and it’s filled with an abundance of treats and secrets. Read about it >


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The Best Buildings in Portland, Oregon

The Old Church, Portland, OregonKnown for its focus on urban planning, Portland, Oregon, takes its architecture seriously. It’s second only to Chicago in the number of LEED-accredited “green buildings” in the United States and is steadfast in preserving and repurposing older buildings. Height restrictions on new construction preserve views of Mt. Hood. But as I roamed around this likable city, I found that the most impressive buildings were those that predated the concept of urban planning. Read about the top five buildings in Portland >


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California Is Golden for Many Reasons

Old Sacramento, CaliforniaThe third-largest state in the United States—and arguably the most famed, iconic, referenced, idealized, and vilified—California has always been many things to many people, from the 300,000 indigenous people who lived here before the Europeans showed up, to miners with gold fever who flocked here in the mid-1800s, to drought-weary Okies looking for salvation during the Dust Bowl era of the 1930s. Now, even if you’re not an aspiring actress lured by the glitz of Hollywood, or a granola or surfer dude looking to live off the grid, the Golden State and its vast array of attractions will lure you here and inevitably make an indelible impression upon you. Read about the top five things to see and do in California >


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Architectural Stars in the North Star State

Landmark Center, St. Paul, MinnesotaI’ve been to Minnesota three times—once on a lark in late autumn when an unexpected snowstorm necessitated purchases of gloves and hats, once on a quick business trip to do a press check at a former job, and once as a starting point for a two-week romp around the Dakotas. None of them were long enough to completely immerse myself in the 12th-largest state in the United States, yet they did afford me the opportunity to check out some of the state’s more than 10,000 lakes as well as its striking architecture. Read about the top five buildings in Minnesota >


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Standing Tall: The World’s Best Columns

Illyrian Column, Ljubljana, SloveniaThey’re Doric, Ionic, Corinthian, Tuscan, smooth or fluted, singular or clustered. Their capitals can resemble anything from acanthus leaves to volutes. And when they’re not supporting entire buildings, giving the appearance of such on a building’s façade, or forming an arcade, columns often sprout up as stand-alone structures. These engaging specimens of verticality, whether they’re slender or bold, have always caught my eye (whether or not I’m able to climb to their tops). Read about the world’s top five columns >


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Seafood in Middle America

I was 482 miles from the nearest ocean, smack in the middle of Indiana. That didn’t seem to make a difference at Raw Bar by Slapfish in Indianapolis, where the menu teems with oysters, lobster, mussels, shrimp, and crab. Amid that bounty of surf, there’s also some turf. And that’s what makes this restaurant a favorite not only of pescatarians of all stripes but also of those who want to see more than seafood. Read about it >


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Riverfront Respite in Harrisburg, Pennsylvania

Rescued from the threat of demolition fewer than 20 years ago, a pair of next-door-neighbor mansions from the 1920s emerged in 2015 as the premier riverfront bed and breakfast along Front Street in Harrisburg, Pennsylvania. The Manor on Front provides indulgent comforts (there are lots of cozy spaces for catnaps), outstanding breakfasts, and convivial hosts who ensure that your stay here is, just like mine, exceptional. Read about it >