Stephen Travels


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Hiking With Huskies in Finnish Lapland

An adult huskyIn Rovaniemi, the 16th most populous city in Finland, straddling the Arctic Circle in Finnish Lapland, you can visit the real Santa Claus, play with baby reindeer, watch the sun never set during the summer, sail down the Kemi River to an old island lumberjack camp for an outdoor meal, observe a craftsman as he creates knife handles out of reindeer antlers, or spend some time in Arktikum, the city’s leading museum  — all of which I did.

But when the opportunity to go trekking through the woods with some husky puppies presented itself, I knew I had just hit upon something extraordinarily memorable. Read more >


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Exploring America’s Other Half Dome

Cincinnati Union TerminalHalf Dome.

You just thought of that giant granite rock in Yosemite National Park, right?

Now try a little change in mindset — and letter case — and you’ll conjure up the Cincinnati Museum Center at Union Terminal, the largest manmade half dome in the Western Hemisphere. It’s chock-full of museums and attractions, but the real star is the building itself. Read more >


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Falling for Iguazú

Argentina - Iguazú - Lower Ciricuit ViewDeep within South America, in the northeastern arm of Argentina that forces its way between Brazil and Paraguay, Iguazú National Park teems with life. Jaguars, howler monkeys, ocelots, countless birds and more than 2,000 vascular plants thrive in the park’s 212 square miles. But the main draw, by far, is the 275 cascades that compose Iguazú Falls. Wider than Africa’s Victoria Falls and higher than Niagara, Iguazú attracts about one million visitors per year. When I first saw this natural wonder of the world, the adjectives to describe it couldn’t come fast enough: awe-inspiring, beguiling, tremendous, exotic, enchanting. Clearly, I had just arrived at the most beautiful waterfall I’ve ever seen. Read more >


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A “Sea of Sin” in the Very Wild West

Bodie State Historic Park, CaliforniaOne of my favorite cities in the United States is located smack in the middle of nowhere near the California-Nevada border. It’s not on a main — or even a secondary — road, and its permanent population is zero. You can’t get there by train or bus, direct or connecting flight. No art galleries are open for browsing, no parks for an afternoon stroll will greet you, and you won’t be able to refill your tank because there are no gas stations. You can’t book a room for the night, and forget about grabbing something to eat — restaurants don’t exist.

Why on earth is this seemingly godforsaken place one of my favorites? Because it’s Bodie — the largest, best preserved, and most fascinating ghost town in the country. And exploring  an abandoned city that used to have a population of about 10,000 more than satisfies my fascination with ruins: What was this place? How did it come into existence? What happened here? Who lived here? And why did it end? Read more >

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Benvenuto!

When I first began to travel in earnest, my goal was to see every country in the world. Given the restrictions of a full-time job and a middle-class income, however, that dream soon evaporated. Nevertheless, I’ve managed to visit a fair share of locations throughout the world. And no matter where I’ve been or what I’ve done — whether it’s hiking in the Andes, butchering the Icelandic language, or sipping a mint julep on the veranda of a Louisiana plantation house — my journeys continually expose me to the beauty of this world and, in the process, hopefully make me a better global citizen.

These are my stories.

Swiss Camels and an Exploding SnowmanSwiss Camels and an Exploding Snowman

While wandering around the streets of Zurich, the last thing I expected to see were a few camels being led by Bedouins. I also didn’t anticipate joining thousands of other people who were waiting to set fire to a straw and cotton wool snowman. But this was the Sechseläuten, and everybody loves a parade. Read more >

Venice Churches Without MassesVenice Churches Without Masses

The Basilica di San Marco is stuffed to capacity from morning to night, and with good reason — it’s simply stunning. But once I ventured away from Venice’s main attraction in the Piazza San Marco, I found other houses of worship that are just as noteworthy. The best part? I had them all to myself. Read more >

Rancho de Chimayo, New MexicoRancho de Chimayó

Halfway between Santa Fe and Taos, in the small town of Chimayó, New Mexico, I happened upon a family-owned restaurant that does everything right. Combining traditional and contemporary New Mexican cuisine, Rancho de Chimayó serves up just about the best meal you’ll find in the Land of Enchantment. Read more >

Blue Heron Inn (Rigby, Idaho)Blue Heron Inn

Situated on the South Fork of the Snake River in Rigby, Idaho, the six-bedroom log and stone Blue Heron Inn is the perfect place to immerse yourself in total tranquility. If you’re lucky, you’ll be able to spot blue herons flying by, but you’ll always be guaranteed an inspiring sunrise and a delectable breakfast. Read more >

Five Favorite Bridges

Five Favorite Bridges

Grand or humble, long or short, vehicular or pedestrian, steel or stone, bridges have long held an allure for me, with their promise of spanning a gap and leading me elsewhere. These are my five favorites. Read more >