Stephen Travels


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My Own Private Estonia

Sagadi ManorAfter three days in the captivating capital of Estonia, it was time to escape from the almost inescapable clusters of day-tripping tourists from massive cruise ships who have inadvertently edged Tallinn toward becoming a Disney-esque caricature of itself. So I hit the road with Martin, a local university student majoring in social sciences, for a private look at the Estonia that wasn’t overflowing with medieval-themed restaurants and countless amber shops. Read more >


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Detroit’s Endangered Art: Now You See It…

The Jewish CemeteryMotown’s current problems are epic, and it seems unlikely that Detroit will be able to pay off its $18 billion in debt any time soon. One disturbing solution that has been suggested is to sell off the city’s artwork housed in the Detroit Institute of Arts. Pillaging one of the nation’s top art museums is a short-sighted and ignorant answer to a complex problem, yet it has now entered the realm of possibility. So before anyone can act on it and commit this enormous error, make sure you schedule a visit to the DIA to appreciate some of the most exceptional art in the United States. Read more >


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Five Aerial Tramways With Outstanding Views

Banff National ParkThey’ll take you up hundreds or thousands of feet to summits and peaks in just a few minutes, rewarding you with unbeatable views of twisting rivers, endless mountain chains, or entire cities. Whether you’re enclosed in a cable car by yourself or with two dozen other people, the silent journey — aside from being an engineering feat — imparts views that grow more dazzling the higher you climb. These are my five favorite aerial tramways in the world. Read more >


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Missouri’s Mosaic Marvel

Cathedral Basilica, St. Louis, MissouriThe Cathedral Basilica of St. Louis is much more than just the seat of the city’s archdiocese. It’s the home of the world’s largest collection of mosaic tiles — 41.5 million tiles, to be exact, in more than 7,000 colors that cover a total area of 83,000 square feet. From the second you step inside, you’ll be dazzled by the masterful work created by 20 artists over the course of 75 years. Read more >


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Driving Without Mirrors in the Canary Islands

Mountain in TenerifeThe Spanish island of Tenerife, the most populous of the Canary Islands off the coast of Africa, is a treasure trove of natural wonders: volcanoes, craters, pine forests, strange rock formations, glorious sunsets, countless wildflowers, rugged mountains, and beaches of yellow, white and black sand. The best way to delve into it all is via car. But can you truly enjoy your ride when all the mirrors on your vehicle begin to fall off or vanish? Read more >


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Luxurious Indulgence in Helsinki

Hotel Kämp, Helsinki, FinlandA little bit of luxury when you’re on vacation is always a welcome thing. In Helsinki, when you want to treat yourself and combine that luxury with a roller-coaster history, tasteful elegance, flawless service and a perfect location in the heart of the Finnish capital, you stay at Hotel Kämp. Read more >


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Man Meets Montana Moose

Female mooseWhen you’re hiking in the woods, you never really know what to expect when you hear something rustling in the trees beside you, especially in Glacier National Park, which teems with wildlife. Is it a cougar, a gray wolf, a grizzly bear? Perhaps it’s just a chipmunk or a pygmy shrew. Maybe it’s only the wind. But when it turns out to be a female moose, and you’re only 20 feet away from it, your little stroll in the forest transcends a mere hike. And when her mate shows up, sporting a full rack of antlers, you become positively giddy — until two crotchety senior citizens show up and ruin the mood. Read more >


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Steep Your Dreams in History

One of the largest and best urban historic districts in the United States, Heritage Hill in Grand Rapids, Michigan, exudes a friendly charm. Streets lined with grand homes from the 19th and early 20th century encourage you to spend hours exploring all of the district’s 3,500 acres. And once you’ve been seduced by the neighborhood’s elegance, you can call it a night right in the midst of it all at the Brayton House. Read more >


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Sure Things in Saratoga Springs

October in Saratoga Springs, New York: Racing season is over, the thoroughbreds are on vacation, and the smart set has returned home. Picking a winner now does not revolve around our equine friends. Rather, it becomes a wager on where to have dinner.

Saratoga Springs doesn’t have countless options, but the choices that do exist will more than satisfy foliage seekers who’ve come to revel in the autumnal leaves in this attractive city of beautiful Victorian homes from the late 1800s. For a hearty meal in a historic setting, the Olde Bryan Inn is a sure bet. (Read more about the Olde Bryan Inn > ) And if you’re in the mood for something more elegant, the fine American bistro Maestro’s at the Van Dam will be the big payoff. (Read more about Maestro’s > )


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Fine Dining in the Capital of Croatia

I’ve never been a fan of hotel restaurants. Often overpriced and a deterrent from going out and exploring local eateries, they’re never my first choice. Nor my second. They may prefer an international menu rather than a good selection of the regional cuisine, and I’d prefer to dine among locals rather than other travelers. From the second I stepped into Radicchio, the restaurant in the Hotel Arcotel Allegra in Zagreb, Croatia, however, I changed my mind. This is, by far, a superior restaurant I would have regretted missing. Read more >