Stephen Travels


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Sweden’s Vasa: From Wreck to Celebrity

Vasa Museum, Stockholm, SwedenMore than 25 million people have visited the Vasamuseet since it opened in Stockholm, Sweden, in 1990, and with more than one million visitors per year, it’s the most popular maritime museum in the world. And why shouldn’t it be? The centerpiece is the Vasa, the only intact 17th-century ship that has ever been salvaged. After 333 years at the bottom of Stockholm harbor following a catastrophic maiden voyage, the Vasa has been brought back to life. And she’s absolutely spectacular. Read more >


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A Dark and Stormy Afternoon in Historic Bellefontaine Cemetery

Bellafontaine Cemetery, St. Louis, MissouriThe first rural cemetery west of the Mississippi River also happens to be one of the most historic, in terms of those who are interred here. This premier cemetery in Missouri is the final resting place for many who have become household names, and even more who deserve to be. If not for them, Americans might be flying the Stars and Bars instead of the Stars and Stripes, might not be purchasing hotdogs (or a Bud) at baseball games, might not have attended kindergarten, and might not have ever traveled over land to the Pacific. Add to the fascinating list of people who changed the course of a country a fierce thunderstorm that made the afternoon look like night, and Bellefontaine Cemetery became one of my favorite sites in St. Louis. Read more >


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Finding Peace and Harmony in Half an Acre

Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese GardenTucked into the heart of the third-largest Chinatown in North America, the Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden is an exceptionally inviting half-acre oasis of tranquility amid the bustle of Vancouver, British Columbia. The garden’s four major elements — rocks, plants, water, and architecture — are engaging and picturesque, and it’s a delight to stroll around the first classical Chinese scholars garden built outside of China and appreciate them all. But when a senior citizen docent from Singapore spends 90 minutes explaining the stories behind each of them, they take on an enhanced and fascinating life all of their own. Read more >


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Getting Hooked on Helsinki’s Best Seafood

Havis, Helsinki, FinlandWith 780 miles of coastline and 187,888 lakes, Finland is a seafood lover’s delight. The creative chefs in Helsinki take full advantage of the country’s maritime resources and produce some imaginative results from what is pulled from the water. Located across the street from the old food market and the busiest harbor in the city, Havis combines its highly appropriate setting with an alluring menu that has earned it warm regard as one of the best seafood restaurants in the city — a reputation it well deserves. Read more >


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Five Beaches to Make You Forget Winter

New_Zealand_Tapu_BayYou’re tired of the snow and ice. And the single-digit temperatures. And the scarves, hats, gloves, and thermal underwear. And the terms “wind chill,” “subarctic,” and “polar vortex.” It’s time to start warming yourself up with thoughts of sun and sand. Growing up in New York, I wasn’t an avid fan of the local beaches — the water was gray, the sand was speckled with litter, and spending a day with thousands of other people around me seemed to mock the notion of relaxation. But my outlook changed during my first trip to the Caribbean, when impossible colors and joyous serenity completely obliterated my notions of what a day at the shore meant. These are my five favorite beaches in the world. Read more >


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A Quintet of Canadian Pyramids

Muttart ConservatoryLike a postmodern Giza — but in a much colder clime — the five glass pyramids of Muttart Conservatory rise above the trees on a hillside in a quiet residential section of Edmonton, Alberta. For almost 40 years, Muttart has been welcoming visitors (and brides) to its indoor botanical garden, and when local meteorologists are far from accurate and you’re faced with a day that’s about 20 degrees colder than predicted, it’s a great place to escape indoors. Read more >


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Dining — and Definitely Wining — in Mendoza

Finca Decero Vineyard, Mendoza, ArgentinaThe symbiotic relationship between wine and the city of Mendoza, Argentina, simply cannot be overstated — a connection that made itself abundantly clear to me when I stepped off the plane in Mendoza, exited the terminal, and caught sight of a vineyard on the grounds of the airport. To really absorb it all, I headed off to sample some of the region’s best varietals and blends at a few of the hundreds of wineries around town, including Finca Decero, where a gorgeous setting and a fantastic meal awaited me. Read more >


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Miracles in Québec

Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupre, QuebecCancer. Malignant tumors. Nonfunctioning limbs. Chronic cardiac conditions. The human body can trap us within ourselves for years, even decades, whenever it decides to malfunction or sustains an attack. When the situation appears hopeless, and medicines and treatments fail, we often start to look for a little extra help outside hospital wards. For half a million people every year, that assistance comes in the form of a pilgrimage to the Basilica of Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré in Québec. And when the impossible happens, and they’re cured of the incurable, they come back to say thanks. Read more >


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Five Post Offices That Truly Deliver

Post Office, Ljubljana, SloveniaIn the present era of instantaneous communication and e-everything, post offices around the world are in serious decline. But it wasn’t all that long ago when post offices were the lifeline of nations, delivering long-anticipated letters, critical documents, history-making news, and packages of all shapes and sizes. Their vital importance was reflected in the grandeur of the buildings that housed them . Although some of them no longer serve their original purpose, these are my five favorite post offices in the world. Read more >


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Sleep More in Seattle

Sorrento Hotel, SeattleFor more than a century, the Sorrento Hotel has been providing luxurious rest for guests ranging from President Taft to Kelly Clarkson. It is Seattle’s oldest boutique hotel and oldest hotel still serving its original purpose. Conjuring images of an enormous Italian palazzo, the Sorrento is that perfect combination of historic ambience and modern convenience. Read more>