I had spent a full day in Estonia outside of Tallinn’s Old Town — something few tourists to this fairy tale city do — with a knowledgeable private guide who took me to Lahemaa National Park, a few of its outstanding manor houses, and a rustic beach town where we had lunch at a bare-bones cafeteria-style eatery filled with Estonians enjoying a lovely summer day along the coast of one of the bays at the edges of the Gulf of Finland. When I returned to the terrific Savoy Boutique Hotel in the Old Town, I was still in a local frame of mind and began my search for some authentic Estonian food, perhaps not served by a wait staff dressed in medieval garb and setting my place with silver “weapons” to attack my meal. That meant avoiding Tallinn’s beautiful Town Hall Square, but it didn’t take very long at all before I found what I was looking for at Kuldse Notsu Kõrts, or the “Golden Piglet Inn.” Read more >
Author Archives: stephentravels
Top 5 Aquariums
The deep blue sea is probably the last great unexplored place on the planet — a dark, forbidding netherworld filled with beauty and mystery that has long held the fascination of mariners and landlubbers alike. Examine any map from the 1500s and you’ll see the oceans illustrated with ferocious sea monsters that terrorized sailors. Although many of the legends and myths surrounding those creatures have been dispelled or explained (mermaids don’t really exist, and the Kraken was most likely a giant squid), the sea and its myriad denizens still fascinate us.
Whether it’s the ferocious dragonfish or horrifying viperfish that could petrify even the bravest explorer, the perennially happy clownfish (thank you, Nemo), the vividly colorful mandarinfish, or the remarkably intelligent dolphin, life under the sea is an ongoing voyage of discovery. Thanks to aquariums around the world, we don’t have to plunge to the ocean floor to see and understand what lies beneath (although that’s fun, too). These are my top five aquariums in the world. Read more >
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“A Rare Steakhouse, Very Well Done” in Grand Cayman
That clever slogan of Copper Falls Steakhouse in the Seven Mile Beach section of Grand Cayman proved to be very apt. After several nights of fantastic seafood dinners, I was ready for a bit of beef, and this establishment had caught my eye a few days earlier when I purchased some staples for the week at the huge (and blissfully cold) supermarket across the street. Framed by white lights, the inviting restaurant lured me back for a meal that was, indeed, very well done. Read more >
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Smith Tower: The Most Attractive Building in Seattle, Washington
Once the tallest building west of Chicago, the Smith Tower in Seattle has long since fallen in the rankings of such things since it opened in 1914. But that doesn’t mean it has lost its significance, or its beauty. In fact, this graceful skyscraper is arguably the most attractive in the city, complete with a finely detailed Chinese Room, terrific observation deck on the 35th floor, human elevator operators, and exactly one penthouse suite for the building’s only residents. Read more >
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Staying in the Cradle of New Zealand Tourism at Robertson House
Every day in Rotorua, the birthplace of New Zealand tourism, I explored and was continually awed by the region’s gorgeous natural features — the Waimangu Volcanic Valley, the Wai-o-Tapu Thermal Wonderland, the giant redwoods in Whakarewarewa Forest. I took in the Maori village of Whakarewarewa, fell in love with the wonderful buildings of the Rotorua Museum, and relaxed in the meticulously maintained Government Gardens. And every night I returned to the Robertson House, a comfortable bed and breakfast in a quiet neighborhood about a 10-minute walk from the city center. This lovely establishment had all the requisites of a desirable B&B: a charming property, a convenient location, an excellent host, and a very satisfying first meal of the day. As an added bonus, it had the laziest, most adorable dog imaginable. Read more >
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Top 5 Buildings in Vienna, Austria
Tourism in Austria is a very big deal: It constitutes about 9 percent of the nation’s gross domestic product. Austria is the 12th most visited country in the world, attracting about 24 million tourists annually. Vienna captures the bulk of that number, and it’s easy to understand why. Over the past five years, Vienna has been ranked both the most livable city on earth and the smartest city on the planet. With a long history and a deep reservoir of cultural events and venues, Austria’s capital teems with opportunities to be impressed. It’s also a great city in which you can follow in the footsteps of Sigmund Freud, Leon Trotsky, and Mozart by lingering over a cup of outstanding java and a rich dessert from a window table at one of the famous coffee houses while admiring all the outstanding architecture surrounding you. From cathedrals to museums, from opera houses to palaces, the entire city seems to have been built for greatness. These are my top five buildings in Vienna. Read more >
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Purmamarca: The Most Colorful Place in Argentina
I had never heard of the tiny town of Purmamarca until I arrived in nearby Salta and happened to see a postcard featuring the Cerro de los Siete Colores. I knew at once I had to see the Hill of Seven Colors. The polychromatic mountain, layered in oranges and purples, is a spectacular display of color in the foothills of the Argentinean Andes, standing at the edge of the town, and one of the world’s top natural curiosities. Once I arrived here, however, I quickly learned that the mountain isn’t the only kaleidoscopic thing around: The market in Purmamarca’s only plaza, ablaze with vibrant textiles and clothing, does its fair share in making this village the most colorful place in Argentina. Read more >
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Top 5 Yellows
It may elicit groans and sighs of dismay from children when a yellow school bus pulls up on the first day back to class in September, but it will also make millions of parents secretly smile. In fact, at least to me, yellow remains the most joyful color. Whether it’s the daffodil fields of Oregon, the Yellow Mounds in Badlands National Park in South Dakota, or the predominant color in the ceramics and pottery made in Orvieto, Italy, yellow is bound to add a little cheer to your day. These are my top five occurrences of yellow from around the world. Read more >
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Finding the Best Restaurant in Downtown Bismarck, North Dakota
An unexpected quiet had gently descended on the streets of North Dakota’s capital by 6 p.m. on a Wednesday. The few stores that weren’t boarded up had already closed for the night, nobody was strolling around, and the cars along East Main Avenue didn’t bother to stop. Not exactly deserted, but not exactly teeming with excitement, either. I became pensive as I considered returning to my car to start a search for a broader, or at least existing, range of restaurant choices for my final night in Bismarck. But then I spied signs of life at the historic, 10-story McKenzie Hotel, the tallest building in the city when it opened in 1911. It all centered around Peacock Alley — a fortuitous find for a terrific dinner. Read more >
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Ambling Around One of the World’s Most Beautiful Gardens at Powerscourt Estate in Enniskerry, Ireland
One of the best things about Dublin, Ireland, is the ease with which you can reach other destinations outside this hectic metropolis, whether it’s another city, like Belfast, or the famed Irish countryside. I took advantage of the abundant connections by hopping on a double-decker bus to the village of Enniskerry to see the famous gardens at Powerscourt Estate — 47 acres of spectacular grounds, including Italian and Japanese gardens, the tallest tree in Ireland, and a pet cemetery that includes a tombstone for a 17-year-old-cow named Eugenie. Read more>
Stephen Travels 