Stephen Travels


Leave a comment

Beauty and History in Montgomery’s Best Buildings

State Capitol, Montgomery, AlabamaNamed for Richard Montgomery, an Irish-born soldier who became a major general in the Continental Army during the American Revolutionary War, Alabama’s second-largest city has earned numerous national accolades, including being cited as an All-America City by the National Civic League and the Best Historic City by USA Today in 2014. It was the first U.S. city to install city-wide electric streetcars, the setting for parts of the Academy Award–nominated movie Selma, and the birthplace of Nat King Cole, Zelda Fitzgerald, and Hank Williams, Sr. Walking around this historically rich city, I could feel its legacy oozing from its built environment, whether it was the Baptist church where Martin Luther King Jr. served as pastor, or the executive residence of Jefferson Davis at the start of the Civil War. These are my top five buildings in Montgomery. Read more >


Leave a comment

Split’s Marjan Hill: Perfect View, No Tourists

St. Nicholas Church, Marjan Hill, Split, CroatiaFor a fantastic view of the second-largest city in Croatia, I headed to the top of the ancient St. Domnius Cathedral. From the observation level, I was enchanted by everything around and below me, but I was also attracted to the big green hill off to the right, a tremendous contrast to the built environment next to it. This was Marjan Hill, and the view of Split from the top of it proved to be even better than the one I was enjoying at that moment. Read more >


Leave a comment

“Local. Really.” The Accurate (and Delicious) Mantra of The Skinny Pancake in Burlington, Vermont

Vermont’s largest city exudes small-town charm, particularly in its pedestrian-friendly downtown. Rising uphill from the cobalt-blue waters of Lake Champlain, Burlington bustles with knowledgeable locals, students from the University of Vermont and Champlain College, content families strolling along Church Street, and laid-back visitors taking it all in. Nowhere presents a better microcosm of this diverse population than The Skinny Pancake, a local eatery that seems to be jumping all day. You’ll be as likely to dine among college students as among yuppie families, aspiring musicians, fit cyclists, and German tourists, all while enjoying the best breakfast — and outstanding crêpes — in town. Read more >


Leave a comment

Crashing a Constitution Day Parade in Bergen, Norway

Constitution Day Parade, Bergen, NorwayWatching a parade, like Zurich’s Sechseläuten, is always fun and provides a pleasant sense of local tradition. Being in a parade, however, takes on a deeper meaning as you immerse yourself in the native culture. And when I got to march through the streets of Bergen, Norway, late at night in a torch-lit procession to celebrate Constitution Day, simply because I asked a friendly Norwegian what was going on, I felt like I belonged there, like a member of an extended and warm family, even though I don’t have a drop of Nordic blood in my body. Read more >


Leave a comment

Top 5 Things to See and Do in Wyoming

Yellowstone National Park, WyomingTraveling to Wyoming at peak season in the summer seems a little masochistic, especially if you’re visiting the incomparable national parks. With only a few main roads in the parks, an elk or bison traffic jam could easily delay you for hours, and that’s a huge amount of time to lose when there’s so much to see. A trip to the Equality State largely centers around nature and the outdoors, and the best time to appreciate it all is autumn: The summer crowds have returned to school and work, facilities remain open before closing up for the winter, and the reds and yellows of quaking aspen, dogwood, and golden larch trees stun you with their brilliance. These are my top five things to see and do in Wyoming. Read more >


Leave a comment

Tulip Mania at Keukenhof

Keukenhof, Lisse, NetherlandsI’ve booked vacations around available time off from my job, around seasonal weather in my destinations, around fluctuating airfares and hotel rates. But only once did I plan a vacation around a flower.

Spring in the Netherlands is all about the tulip. Given the fairly short lifespan of this iconic flower in the country that sparked the “Tulipomania” in the 1630s that nearly ruined it, I had little leeway in the weeks I wanted to spend here. So, with some careful planning, I arrived at the best time of year, when tulips of all varieties and colors greeted me wherever I went — in parks, markets, planters, and shop windows. But it wasn’t until I visited Europe’s largest garden, Keukenhof, and its seven million flowers that I truly appreciated my good timing. Read more >


Leave a comment

PM Buenos Aires Brings Argentinean Cuisine to Miami

PM Buenos Aires, Miami, FloridaThe pervasive Latin influence in Miami is inescapable, whether it’s the Mediterranean-style homes, the Spanish-language music emanating from clubs and cars, or the accents of residents from a couple of dozen Latin American countries. Ultimately, all of that will have you hankering for some food from south of the border. Just about every nation and cuisine is represented here, from Creole dishes in Little Haiti to a coronary-inducing but fantastic Cuban sandwich in Little Havana to Guatemalan bakeries. Near the top of the list is PM Buenos Aires, an upscale Argentinean establishment that served a dinner more delectable than any I had during a week in Buenos Aires itself. Read more >


Leave a comment

Five Buildings of Distinction in Pierre, South Dakota

Karcher-Sahr House, Pierre, South DakotaHalfway between lovely Sioux Falls in the eastern part of South Dakota and the gorgeous Black Hills in the west, Pierre seemed a good resting spot for a couple of days as I traversed the state. And when I first arrived here, I knew immediately that “resting” would be the operative word in this very small city of 14,000 of the friendliest people you’re ever likely to meet. But the city’s size — it’s the second-smallest capital in the United States (after tiny and charming Montpelier, Vermont) — also offers a good opportunity to really get to know and admire some of its outstanding architecture. These are my top five buildings in Pierre. Read more >


Leave a comment

First-rate Dining at Café Christiania in Oslo, Norway

Consistently ranked at or near the top of lists of the most expensive cities in the world, Oslo can easily break your budget. While you’ll want enough money to last throughout your entire trip, you won’t want frugality to prevent you from enjoying the finer things that this friendly city offers. The key is balance. For instance, you can spend your day ice skating at the free rink in the middle of the city and admiring the 212 bronze and granite sculptures in fee-less Vigeland Park while snacking on excellent cheese and bread from a local grocer, then put all the krone you saved into a superb dinner. And one of the best restaurants to enjoy that superior meal is Café Christiana. Read more >


Leave a comment

Unexpected Masterpieces in the Croatian Museum of Naïve Art

Croatian Museum of Naive Art, Zagreb, CroatiaI didn’t know any of their names, and I had never seen their works before. But the artists exhibited in the Croatian Museum of Naïve Art in Zagreb completely captivated me, particularly because just about all of them had never received any formal training or schooling. Despite that, these naïve artists, akin to folk or so-called primitive artists, have created a unique style with their use of striking colors and a common disregard for distance perspective. This museum is easy to miss, and its collection is fairly small, but it’s also one of the most surprisingly delightful and impressive in the capital of Croatia. Read more >