Frequently cited as the world’s breeziest city, the capital of New Zealand is one of the planet’s top draws for windsurfers, sailors, and kite enthusiasts. With an average wind speed of 16.6 miles per hour, the city certainly deserves its blustery reputation. But nothing more than a gentle zephyr greeted me upon my arrival in Wellington, and motionless anemometers characterized my departure a few days later, via ferry across Cook Strait to South Island — one of the world’s most treacherous rides in inclement weather, but also one of the world’s most beautiful on a fair day. Residents swamped pocket parks to enjoy the apparently unusual stillness — a glorious respite that permitted me to easily explore the city and its best architecture without chasing my hat down the street. Read more about my five favorite buildings >
Author Archives: stephentravels
College Without the Classes: A Trio of Celebrated Sites at UBC Vancouver
Now that I’ve been out of college for some time, going back to a campus has become a joy, a return to a pleasant environment without the stress of studying for a calculus final or writing a term paper on Thomas Hardy. Whether I’m checking out some terrific collegiate architecture in Princeton or stumbling upon ebullient commencement ceremonies at a university in Scotland or Michigan, I’m always up for a good stroll around a campus for an hour or two. But at the University of British Columbia, my campus visit became a full-day event, with three world-class attractions integral to a rewarding vacation in Vancouver. Read more >
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A Home for War Blimps: Tillamook Air Museum, Oregon
Today, the only time you’re likely to see a zeppelin is when it’s hovering over a football game or a parade, advertising Goodyear, for instance, or MetLife. But not that long ago, zeppelins were being touted as the next big thing in travel. A little disaster called the Hindenburg almost single-handedly sent that idea up in smoke. Zeppelins continued to be of great importance to the military, however, and the Tillamook Air Museum in Oregon provides a fascinating look at a massive World War II blimp hangar and what it meant to the defense of the United States during the war. Read more >
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Shopping at the Five Best Indoor Markets
During periods of pleasant weather, many of us flock to outdoor markets — to New York’s bountiful farmers market in Union Square, for example, or the irresistibly charming Christmas markets scattered around Germany, or the open-air Marigot Market on the French side of St. Martin. When the weather doesn’t cooperate, however, we still have the option of patronizing indoor markets to purchase our produce, our earrings, our leather-bound journals, our fancy corkscrews, our locally crafted pottery. Not only do they provide an opportunity to pick up the perfect gift, or souvenir, or components of a fine meal, they also offer the chance to mingle with locals, both the vendors and their customers. Read more about my top five indoor markets from around the world >
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An Emporium for All Tastes in Scottsbluff, Nebraska
The “Coffeehouse and Café” part of the restaurant’s name seems to understate its offerings. But the “Emporium” part gets it right. Serving everything from buttery steaks to Greek salads, from wild mushroom ravioli to shrimp orecchiette, and boasting the most expansive wine list in the Nebraska panhandle, the Emporium Coffeehouse and Café in Scottsbluff prepares something for everyone. And after you’ve driven more than 400 miles across the entire state in one shot with barely a break, you’ll be ready to devour the entire menu. Read more >
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Christmas at Steigenberger Metropolitan Hotel in Frankfurt, Germany
I was spending the most wonderful time of the year in Germany, traveling by train to half a dozen cities in search of the best Christmas markets. Having chosen Frankfurt as my base for a week of day trips elsewhere, I needed a hotel close to the central train station to ensure that I’d arrive without a hassle early every morning to catch the impressively punctual trains to my destinations. Without much of a challenge, I found the Steigenberger Metropolitan Hotel. Although I booked my room here based solely on its location directly across the street from the station, the hotel’s other merits soon won me over, surpassing my expectations, right down to the little nightly treats on my pillow. Read more >
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Beyond Haggis: Terrific Thai Cuisine in Glasgow, Scotland
If you’re in Glasgow, Scotland, and want to see irreplaceable architecture, you head to Style Mile along Buchanan Street. If you want to shop for any article of clothing imaginable, you head to Style Mile. Talented and not-so-talented street performers? You head to Style Mile. And if you want to have a terrific non-Scottish dinner in between all the haggis and sticky toffee pudding, you, of course, head to Style Mile — to Chaophraya, the best Thai restaurant in the city and the largest one in Europe. Read more >
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Five Doors to Admire Before You Open Them
We pass through doors countless times every day — in our home, our workplace, the subway, elevators, barns, garages. Most are fairly unremarkable, utilitarian means of egress. But every now and then, a masterfully crafted door stands out in the crowd, arresting our attention, hinting at something remarkable behind it and enticing us to go inside and discover the treasures or surprises awaiting us on the other side. These are my top five doors in the world. Read more >
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A Night in a Barn in Scottsbluff, Nebraska
Occasionally in my youth, if I ever happened to leave a door open, my parents would ask me if I lived in a barn. I never understood that commonly employed expression: Do people in barns leave the doors open? Wouldn’t the horses and cows and pigs get out? Was it just something that city dwellers said to disparage rural folk? I never found out. But now that I have stayed overnight at Barn Anew, a terrifically unique bed and breakfast in Scottsbluff, Nebraska, I can say for the first time that, yes, I have lived in a barn. Read more >
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The Ghost at Symonds Street Cemetery in Auckland, New Zealand
Halloween does not necessarily hold a monopoly on eerie ghost stories; something creepy can happen any day of the year. For me, it was early evening on an ordinary day in November, when I was wandering around the oldest cemetery in Auckland, New Zealand — a fairly neglected and lonesome graveyard that hasn’t seen a new burial in about a century and is littered with decaying tombstones. Throw in a man who appears out of nowhere and disappears just as suddenly, and I was ready to outdo Stephen King. Read more >
Stephen Travels 