Stephen Travels

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The Virgin Mary on a Battlefield and a Dead Miner

St. Nicholas Croatian Catholic Church, Millvale, Pennsylvania

Just four miles outside of downtown Pittsburgh, in the borough of Millvale, Pennsylvania, St. Nicholas Croatian Catholic Church offers a collection of artwork, created by a single artist, that I had never seen in a church before—and I’ve visited a lot of churches. Maksimilijan “Maxo” Vanka created 25 murals that turned the religious art world on its head by graphically portraying war, violence, exploitation, bloodshed, environmental destruction, and selfish materialism. But, in his societal commentary, he didn’t abandon the promise of faith and the tenets of Christianity to make his point: In Vanka’s mesmerizing art, there’s also the promise of eternal reward for those who navigate successfully through the world’s self-inflicted evils and horrors. Read about it >


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Go Slow at Breakfast

L'Omelette, Quebec City

Rise and shine, it’s breakfast time! The most important meal of the day is often rushed, and that’s not a reflection of the speed indicated in its name. “Breakfast” originates from the concept of breaking your fast while you slept. Too often, a bowl of cereal, a granola bar, or a piece of fruit on the run constitutes your first meal of the day. But when you have time, it could also be rewarding and relaxing, setting you up for a very pleasant day, especially when you’re on vacation. Whether it’s an inspired creation at your B&B or something outstanding at a local eatery (where, perhaps, the globe of a light fixture will be in the form of a broken eggshell, the bulb a golden yolk-like orb), breakfast can put you in the right mood for the rest of the morning. Read about the top five breakfasts >


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In With the Old, In With the New

Goodwin Hotel, Hartford, Connecticut

Despite a conversion from an apartment building and several complete renovations, the Goodwin Hotel in Hartford, Connecticut, hasn’t turned its back on its history. A fixture in downtown since 1881, the hotel has retained much of its backstory while infusing contemporary flair and services, making it not only the sole boutique hotel in the city but also one of its best accommodations. Read about it >


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Buenos Aires’ Belle Époque Lives On

Barolo Palace, Buenos Aires, ArgentinaBuenos Aires is largely regarded as the best entrée city to South America for Americans, especially those of European descent. There’s a familiarity here for that group that would be more difficult to find in, say, Lima or La Paz. As an American first-timer to the country, I had to agree. Walking around the city and its distinctive neighborhoods—heavily influenced by European immigrants—is not entirely foreign, and utterly delightful (except for all those narrow and broken sidewalks). All around me, glorious structures from the city’s belle époque—its churches and theaters and municipal buildings—still stand proudly (and, in some cases, in need of a little TLC). Read about the top five buildings in Buenos Aires, Argentina >


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Go Polish in Greenpoint

Restaurant Relax, Brooklyn, New York

The northernmost neighborhood in my home borough of Brooklyn, New York, Greenpoint boasts fantastic views of the Manhattan skyline, a number of architectural landmarks, and a history of producing a long line of entertainers, such as Pat Benatar, Mickey Rooney, Mae West, and Awkwafina. It’s also home to the second-largest concentration of Polish-Americans in the United States—and that means lots of excellent Polish food, including at Relax Restaurant. Read about it >


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Cheers to Salute!

Salute, Hartford, Connecticut

Downtown Hartford, Connecticut, doesn’t have a huge restaurant scene, so I shouldn’t have been surprised when I walked into Salute and found it packed to capacity. But the absence of a large concentration of eateries isn’t the only reason Salute’s patrons keep coming back to this hotspot—a tireless and attentive staff, an involved owner, and a delicious menu are the real reasons. Read about it >


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Historic Delights in Dover, Delaware

34 North State Street, Dover, Delaware

I had chosen Dover for a weeklong vacation to Delaware for its central location in the state, allowing short rides north, south, and east to see much of the rest of the state. While I wasn’t on the road, I was strolling around this historic city, taking in a great art museum, lovely parks, some noteworthy restaurants, and an abundance of beautiful buildings, especially in the genteel Victorian Dover Historic District. Read about the top five buildings in Dover >


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A Golden Opportunity for a Comforting Dinner

Golden Goose Grill, Sedona, ArizonaDriving into and out of Sedona, Arizona, every day while I was here, I would always pass by The Golden Goose Grill, just a half-mile from my hotel. I liked its name, so eventually I found myself here for dinner, surprised, and pleased, that I was eating in one of the highest-rated restaurants in town. Read about it >


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The Blood of Christ—in Belgium

Basilica of the Holy Blood, Bruges, Belgium

For Christians around the world, certain places simply hold more significance than others: Rome, Jerusalem, Vatican City, Fatima. To that list, another should be added. Bruges, Belgium, may not automatically register as a destination of importance or as a pilgrimage site, but if the story is true, it should be. The Basilica of the Holy Blood in the heart of Bruges, impressive in its own right, also contains a vial with drops of Jesus’ blood. Naturally, I had to see it. Read about it >


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A Grand Café, Indeed

Grand Cafe, Luxembourg City

Place d’Armes in the heart of Luxembourg City was crowded, its restaurants overflowing at dinnertime. I was attracted to the fine tilework between the first and second floors of Grand Café, proclaiming its name, location, and address. I was also attracted to the posted menu, highly tempting for carnivores, but not exclusively. Read about it >