Stephen Travels

And he's ready to take you with him.


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Argentina’s Most Beautiful Churches

Cathedral of St. Francis, San Salvador de Jujuy, ArgentinaFour intranational flights in Argentina took me from Buenos Aires to Puerto Iguazú to Salta to Mendoza and back to the capital. It was a whirlwind trip around the northern part of the country during which I hiked around one of the world’s top waterfalls and around the tallest mountain in the Americas, experienced both Latin and Native American cultures, ate llama cutlets and sucked on coca leaves to stave off altitude sickness, and roamed through some of the country’s best cities, filled with beautiful (and often crumbling) architecture, including fantastic houses of worship. Read about the top five churches in Argentina >


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Beloved by All: 1822 –

Mausoleum, Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos AiresSome of the world’s best cemeteries—Green-Wood Cemetery in Brooklyn, New York; Woodlawn Cemetery in the Bronx, New York; and Bellefontaine Cemetery in St. Louis, Missouri—are grand rural cemeteries, filled with curving roads, hills, trees, flowering shrubs, and ponds. But one of them, Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires, Argentina, differs completely from the rest—an urban, densely packed burial ground founded in 1822 and crammed with mausoleums and monuments along a city-like grid pattern. It looks like a scale model of Buenos Aires itself, and it’s the final resting place of dozens of influential Argentinians, including one who doesn’t want us to cry for her. Read more about it >


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Unforgettable Café Culture Experiences

Cafe Tortoni, Buenos Aires, ArgentinaYou’re ready to start your day with a light breakfast. Or you’ve been working your way through the morning sights and need a little midday nourishment. Or you’re up for a late evening cup of coffee and something sweet. No matter what time of day, a welcoming café invites you in with a tempting menu and a closer look at local customs, and the best ones do it in fine style. Read about the top five cafés >


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BA in BA: Boutique Accommodations in Buenos Aires

Rooney's Boutique HotelAn accommodation in the heart of Buenos Aires, Argentina, that offers heart-stopping ham omelets, free tango lessons, and the refinement of the Old World transported to the New World — that’s what Rooney’s Boutique Hotel promises you. All of that means you’ll be staying at one of the most atmospheric hotels in this rich and complex city. Read more about it >


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Shelf Life: The World’s Best Bookstores

El Ateneo Grand Splendid, Buenos Aires, ArgentinaWhen you’re confined to your home for any reason, from a three-day cold that has you feeling haggard to a yearlong global pandemic that has wrecked every aspect of your life and has completely enervated you, you need a panacea to prevent insanity. From cobbling together inventive workout routines with household items to starring in your own YouTube videos to whipping up something completely new in the kitchen, we’ve all found methods to amuse ourselves. (Binge-watching brainless reality shows doesn’t cut it.) Of course, the old standby — curling up with a good book — rises to the top of the ways to escape your situation and enter a world far-removed from your own. And finding a unique brick-and-mortar bookstore to expand your library with anything from the definitive biography of an obscure artist to a demotic novel for a beach read is where it all begins (sorry, Amazon). Read about my top five bookstores >


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The Most Heavenly Celestial Intermediaries, Protectors, and Guides

Angel on St. Angelo Bridge, RomeAngels are a common motif during the Christmas season (particularly noteworthy is Clarence in the classic It’s a Wonderful Life, and in the holiday markets in Düsseldorf, Germany), but they’re not restricted to December. You can find them throughout the year, in myriad locations and captured in various materials and emotional states, from joyful angels blowing horns to mournful ones grieving at gravesites. You may even have one of the guardian type of your own. Read about the top five angels >


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A Good Deed Portrayed in Art Around the World

St. Veronica, National Gallery of Art, Washington DCJuly 12 is the feast day of St. Veronica, one of the most identifiable saints in the Christian canon. Whereas so many saints can be hard to recognize by sight according to their symbols (for example, a lily is associated with at least 10 saints; a book accompanies more than 20), the veil with Jesus’ face is assigned only to Veronica. She was especially revered in the 14th and 15th centuries, but her simple act of kindness — offering to wipe Christ’s face — is just as relevant, and as necessary, today. Throughout the world, she has been portrayed in myriad ways and materials. Read about the top five depictions of St. Veronica >


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The Power of Pink

Rose quartz, Rapid City, South DakotaYou may first conjure up an image of a baby blanket for your infant daughter or niece. Perhaps an Easter bunny comes to mind. Or maybe you recall the unmistakable aroma of bubble gum. No matter what your association, the color pink will make you think of something relevant, and it’s usually a positive and cheery thought. Although pink comes to the fore with the arrival of spring, in myriad blossoms and flowers, you don’t have to look very hard to find it in delightful places around the world throughout the year. Read about the top five pinks >


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Going Green Around the World

Decanter Set, Pittsburgh, PennsylvaniaWith spring almost at the doorstep for many of us, we begin to think of shedding extra layers of thick clothing and weatherproof boots, stowing away our rock salt and shovels, and not having to de-ice our cars every morning. Buds will soon appear, and gray will morph into green bursting all around us, bringing with it all signs of rebirth and new life. Of course, nature doesn’t hold a monopoly on green; there are plenty of nonliving objects that are green that you can see and fall in love with all year. Read about the world’s top five greens >


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Captivating Churches in Buenos Aires, Argentina

Basilica of Our Lady of Help, Buenos Aires, ArgentinaWhen Buenos Aires was the It city of the world in the 1920s and 1930s, Argentina had grown into one of the world’s wealthiest countries. Things have gotten much bumpier since then, but plenty of evidence of that golden era still exists, especially in the city’s famed architecture. Chief among them are the spectacular houses of worship — many in need of some repair yet managing to retain their exquisite grandeur, making them desirable destinations to visit. Read more about the top five churches in Buenos Aires >