Stephen Travels


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The Virgin Mary on a Battlefield and a Dead Miner

St. Nicholas Croatian Catholic Church, Millvale, Pennsylvania

Just four miles outside of downtown Pittsburgh, in the borough of Millvale, Pennsylvania, St. Nicholas Croatian Catholic Church offers a collection of artwork, created by a single artist, that I had never seen in a church before—and I’ve visited a lot of churches. Maksimilijan “Maxo” Vanka created 25 murals that turned the religious art world on its head by graphically portraying war, violence, exploitation, bloodshed, environmental destruction, and selfish materialism. But, in his societal commentary, he didn’t abandon the promise of faith and the tenets of Christianity to make his point: In Vanka’s mesmerizing art, there’s also the promise of eternal reward for those who navigate successfully through the world’s self-inflicted evils and horrors. Read about it >


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Go Slow at Breakfast

L'Omelette, Quebec City

Rise and shine, it’s breakfast time! The most important meal of the day is often rushed, and that’s not a reflection of the speed indicated in its name. “Breakfast” originates from the concept of breaking your fast while you slept. Too often, a bowl of cereal, a granola bar, or a piece of fruit on the run constitutes your first meal of the day. But when you have time, it could also be rewarding and relaxing, setting you up for a very pleasant day, especially when you’re on vacation. Whether it’s an inspired creation at your B&B or something outstanding at a local eatery (where, perhaps, the globe of a light fixture will be in the form of a broken eggshell, the bulb a golden yolk-like orb), breakfast can put you in the right mood for the rest of the morning. Read about the top five breakfasts >


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Natural History Museums That Will Rock Your World

Royal Alberta Museum, EdmontonIf you have children and want to take them to a museum, chances are that the best choice is a natural history museum, filled with items that would certainly entertain and, hopefully, educate them, from giant whales to massive dinosaur skeletons to glowing minerals. And if you don’t have kids? These museums are just as fascinating for adults, and I’m never disappointed by their exhibits of every aspect of nature on Earth that exists above, beside, and below me. Read about the top five natural history museums >


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Unmistakable Urban Profiles

Calgary, AlbertaSometimes, in order to get the best view of a city’s skyline, you have to be outside the city. But not always—sometimes the best view comes from the top of a tall building right in the heart of it. Either way, many cities around the world boast beguiling skylines that cannot be mistaken for any other and simply cannot be missed, whether it’s the high-rise profile of Hong Kong or the low-rise beauty of Dubrovnik, Croatia. Read about the top five skylines >


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Holy Harrisburg!

St. Lawrence Catholic Church, Harrisburg, PennsylvaniaHarrisburg was a one-day stopover on my drive between Indianapolis and my home in New York. I had always wanted to see the Pennsylvania state capitol, and after checking in to the wonderful Manor on Front, I strolled along the Susquehanna River to my destination. The capitol’s massive green dome is certainly impressive, but so is the surprising number of lovely churches packed into a relatively small downtown. Read about the top five churches in Harrisburg, Pennsylvania >


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Riverfront Respite in Harrisburg, Pennsylvania

Rescued from the threat of demolition fewer than 20 years ago, a pair of next-door-neighbor mansions from the 1920s emerged in 2015 as the premier riverfront bed and breakfast along Front Street in Harrisburg, Pennsylvania. The Manor on Front provides indulgent comforts (there are lots of cozy spaces for catnaps), outstanding breakfasts, and convivial hosts who ensure that your stay here is, just like mine, exceptional. Read about it >


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Post’s Present

Old New York Times BuildingGeorge Browne Post should be a household name, but for most people, he is not. And that’s a shame. Post (1837–1913) was one of the United States’ most prolific, most creative, and most respected architects. We can curse the evil wrecking ball for shunting Post to the forgotten architects bin. If you were to scan a list of all his brilliant works, far too many would bear an asterisk with the note “demolished”: the Erie County Savings Bank in Buffalo, New York; the Cotton Exchange, Western Union Building, World Building, and Collis P. Huntington Mansion in New York City; the old Borough Hall in the Bronx, New York; the Bonner-Marquand Gymnasium at Princeton University; the Prudential Building in Newark, New Jersey; the Bank of Pittsburgh—all gone. Those that remain, however, are reminders of Post’s enviable talents that attracted such clients as Cornelius Vanderbilt, Joseph Pulitzer, and The New York Times. Read about the top five works by George Browne Post that still remain >


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Going Directly to Jail

Old Lewis and Clark County Jail, Helena, MontanaGoing to prison while on vacation is not exactly on anyone’s itinerary, especially if you’ve seen Midnight Express. But sometimes a look at life behind bars is a worthy way to pass an hour or two, especially when the jails themselves provide some fascinating history and some pretty impressive buildings. Read about the top five jails >


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Philadelphia’s Old Churches Always Offer Something New

Lutheran Church of the Holy Communion, Philadelphia, PennsylvaniaWith so many historic sites to see in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, ranging from Benjamin Franklin’s gravesite to the massive food mecca inside Reading Terminal Market (one of the world’s best indoor markets) to the oldest residential street in the United States, it’s hard to pick which ones to head to when you have only three days in the city. My recommendation is to sprinkle visits to some beautiful churches into your itinerary; you’ll be rewarded with artistic beauty and some fascinating tales. Read about the top five churches in Philadelphia >


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The Churches of Pittsburgh: Very Diverse, All Beautiful

From the top of Mount Washington, I took in the fantastic view of the skyline of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, one of the best urban views in the United States. Connected to the land across the Monongahela and Allegheny rivers by its iconic yellow bridges, this pie-shaped section of the city rises heavenward with its shiny skyscrapers, which (unfortunately) effectively hide one of the city’s lower-rise assets: its gorgeous houses of worship. Read about the top five churches in Pittsburgh >