Detroit has seen better days — we all know that. But that doesn’t mean it’s a hopeless case. In fact, it’s one of the most interesting American cities I’ve ever visited. And when I was searching for a place to stay in this Michigan city — one of the best in the United States for architecture, and by far one of the most anthropologically riveting — I decided to opt for something from its grander days rather than a shiny new glass-and-steel hotel. So I took a step back in time and, for four days, I led a semi-Victorian life at the unique Inn on Ferry Street. Read more >
Author Archives: stephentravels
Breaking for Lunch at Bassaterre’s Ballahoo
Literally steps away from Port Zante, the terminal that attracts countless cruise ships every year to the Caribbean island of St. Kitts, you would expect Ballahoo to be overrun with megaship devotees with massive appetites. But, because so many passengers never make it past Port Zante’s duty-free shops and restaurants run by Chinese and Indian immigrants and don’t venture into the island’s capital city, this terrific restaurant practically ensures that you won’t be sitting next to people from your hometown, pressed for time and anxious to get back to their ship. All of that is great for you: You’ll be able to easily select a desirable table and enjoy a laid-back, delicious local meal with a view and without a crowd. Read more >
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Come Sail Away on the World’s Best Boat Rides
When the summer heat becomes too oppressive and you’re tired of sitting in enclosed air-conditioned rooms, one of the best ways to cool off is to hop on a boat, whether it’s your own private tricked-out yacht or a workaday municipal water ferry. A refreshing breeze kicks in as the speed increases, cooling your overheated skin and providing a pleasant reprieve. The ride gets more interesting, of course, when you’re traveling and you find yourself on a luzzu in Malta, a paddleboat on the Alabama River, a pletna in Slovenia, or a high-speed catamaran in Saint Martin. Read more about the world’s top five boat rides >
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Ca’ San Rocco: Venice’s Perfect Secret B&B
A substantial number of people who spend more than a day in Venice, Italy, tend to overnight out of town in nearby Mestre — it’s convenient to Venice, and accommodation prices are much more reasonable. But I would not suggest that. If you’ve come all this way to see Venice, stay in Venice. It may cost you more, but the experience and memories will far outweigh your parsimony. And once I decided to forgo a room with a canal view, the financial difference was barely noticeable because I stayed at Ca’ San Rocco, an utterly charming, comfortable, quiet, and affordable bed and breakfast in the heart of Venice. Read more >
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Sampling a Fantastic Cross-section of Latin American Cuisine
When I was on weeklong vacation in San Diego for the first time and ended up having dinner at the same restaurant a second time because the first time was so spectacular, I knew somebody was doing something right. Case in point: Berta Utreras, chef and owner of her eponymous restaurant who has been achieving unforgettable results for 26 years. Ever since then, I’ve been insisting that anyone visiting San Diego must frequent this pan–Latin American establishment that will leave them hankering for more. Read more >
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Day-tripping to Lokrum, Dubrovnik’s Next-door Island Neighbor
When the enormous cruise ships sailed into Dubrovnik, Croatia, and discharged hundreds of tourists who jammed the main street of the Old Town in search of thimbles and shot glasses with a picture of the city on them, it was time for me to escape for a while. One of the best and easiest ways to retreat from the hordes is to hop on a ferry for the short cruise to Lokrum, the green island just about 2,000 feet — yet an entire world — away. Read more >
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A-List Churches in Albany, New York
For a smaller capital city, Albany, New York, teems with iconic structures: the unique state capitol, The Egg performing arts venue, and the sprawling old headquarters of the Delaware and Hudson Railway, now the administration building for the State University of New York. Chief among them are the city’s churches, eight of which are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Their congregations include Baptists, Catholics, Episcopalians, Lutherans, Orthodox, Pentecostal, Presbyterians, and United Methodists. They span a wide variety of architectural styles, and they all enjoy voluminous histories, making a visit to these venerable institutions a very rewarding experience. Read more about the top five churches in Albany >
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Rapid City, South Dakota’s Five Best Delights
A pleasant, easygoing vibe permeates South Dakota’s second-largest city. Compact enough to see largely by foot, it seems populated entirely by friendly people who made me feel welcome in their hometown. Often used as a base for exploring the nearby Black Hills, it’s perfectly situated to enjoy the region’s stellar outdoor activities, from trout fishing to hiking around granite peaks to exploring some of the world’s top caves and caverns. But the city itself, and some of its unique attractions, deserve a little time and attention, too. Read more about the top five things to see and do in Rapid City >
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Big Flavors in Little Malta: Legligin Wine Bar’s Incomparable Tasting Menu
Before a recent trip to Malta, I had never sampled Maltese food. It was a cuisine that simply didn’t exist where I lived, and one that had never crossed my mind to seek out. But after a nearly three-hour dinner at Legligin Wine Bar on my first night in the country’s capital of Valletta, I was completely addicted. Malta’s culinary offerings reflect the country’s complicated history, during which this archipelago was occupied by Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Muslims, Normans, Aragonese, Knights of St. John, French, and British, culminating in a complex and outstanding cuisine that this superior restaurant deftly and deliciously captures. Read more about Legligin >
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Beyond the Gorges: The Five Best Buildings in Ithaca, New York
Ithaca, New York, is famous for its gorgeous gorges, which weave their way around and through the city, providing ample opportunity for its residents, visitors, and thousands of students at Ithaca College and Cornell University to enjoy some of nature’s finest work. When you emerge from these craggy corridors, you can also enjoy some of man’s finest work in the city’s architectural heritage. Read more about the top five buildings in Ithaca >
Stephen Travels 