Stephen Travels


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Legendary Legends

Apprentice Pillar, Rosslyn Chapel, Roslin Glen, ScotlandWhat better way to spend a frigid winter day than curled up by a fire listening to a great legend? Granted, it was not a winter day when I learned about these terrific stories, nor was I seated next to a fireplace. Nevertheless, these are tales that have stuck with me for decades, tales that breathed even more life into some of the most memorable places I’ve been. Read about the world’s top five legends >


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Unmistakable Urban Profiles

Calgary, AlbertaSometimes, in order to get the best view of a city’s skyline, you have to be outside the city. But not always—sometimes the best view comes from the top of a tall building right in the heart of it. Either way, many cities around the world boast beguiling skylines that cannot be mistaken for any other and simply cannot be missed, whether it’s the high-rise profile of Hong Kong or the low-rise beauty of Dubrovnik, Croatia. Read about the top five skylines >


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It’s All in the Curious Details

Stone Mosaic Sidewalk, Freiburg, GermanyIf you’ve been following my blog for a while now, and I hope that you are, you know I have a passion for architecture. I’ve written about castles, cathedrals, mansions, and so many other buildings and their fascinating stories. While I love looking at the entire structure as a whole, sometimes there’s an engaging little otiose detail that may elude me on first glance. Thank goodness for that second look, when these curiosities, thoughtful and often playful, grabbed my attention and made me appreciate the imagination of those who created them. Although some have lost their raison d’être to the mists of time, others can tell an entire history. Read about the top five architectural curiosities >


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Scotland’s Museums Are True Treasures, Inside and Out

Viking chess pieces. A 62-page book on how to be safe from air raids. One of the world’s top five clocks and one of the top five Crucifixions (thank you, Salvador Dalí). A parade of important historical figures from the fifth century on. I found all of them, and so much more, in the museums in Scotland, perfect refuges when mercurial weather drives you inside (after you’ve taken a good look at their gorgeous outsides). Read about the top five museums in Scotland >


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Fired Up

Royal Palace, Stirling Castle, Stirling, ScotlandOn a cold evening in late October in Granville, Ohio, I entered my accommodation, the Granville Inn, where the flames in the lobby fireplace greeted me and started to thaw me out, exorcising the chill from my body. With the northern half of the globe now ensconced in the winter season, I’m warmed by that memory. Amid all the snow and ice and freezing temperatures, one of the most welcome sights is a fire—well, a contained fire, such as in a fireplace, particularly a wood-burning fireplace, where you can become mesmerized by the dancing flames and the snap, crackle, and pop of the logs as they burn. Even without Christmas stockings that were hung there with care, fireplaces always provide a warm welcome. Read about the top five fireplaces >


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Standing Tall: The World’s Best Columns

Illyrian Column, Ljubljana, SloveniaThey’re Doric, Ionic, Corinthian, Tuscan, smooth or fluted, singular or clustered. Their capitals can resemble anything from acanthus leaves to volutes. And when they’re not supporting entire buildings, giving the appearance of such on a building’s façade, or forming an arcade, columns often sprout up as stand-alone structures. These engaging specimens of verticality, whether they’re slender or bold, have always caught my eye (whether or not I’m able to climb to their tops). Read about the world’s top five columns >


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Food With a Mood

Chaophraya, Glasgow, ScotlandThroughout my travels, I’ve eaten in a vast variety of settings. Some of them would hardly classify as formal, although the quality of what they served was shockingly good: the stand in Bergen, Norway, that peddled a delicious Jagtwurst, the street cart in Uppsala, Sweden, with the sweetest raspberries imaginable, the barbecue joint in Brooklyn with brown-paper placemats that served astoundingly tender pulled pork. But sometimes I crave something unique—a restaurant with atmosphere and an unmistakable sense of place and history that supplements the dining experience to such a degree that I’m still able to recall it fondly decades after I went here. Read about the top five atmospheric restaurants >


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Busted: The World’s Best Heads

Bust of Queen VictoriaAn artist’s ability to carve a human head and have the result bear an uncanny likeness to the model never fails to impress me. Such busts may very well cause you to do a double-take, as you question yourself whether that is the real flesh-and-blood person, or their image re-created in marble, copper, stone, or whatever other material the sculptor has chosen to employ. Some, of course, rise head and shoulders above the rest. Read about the world’s top five busts >


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Scotland’s Spectacular Churches

St. Magnus Cathedral, Kirkwall, ScotlandSome are so ancient, you can almost hear the ghosts of worshippers from nearly a millennium ago. The churches of Scotland, like much of the nation’s architectural inventory, are astoundingly sturdy-looking, as if nothing could ever destroy them. They’re also exquisitely beautiful, with the most delicate details that often belie their bulk. They continually impressed me as I made my two-week loop around this irresistible land. Read about the top five churches in Scotland >


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Going Directly to Jail

Old Lewis and Clark County Jail, Helena, MontanaGoing to prison while on vacation is not exactly on anyone’s itinerary, especially if you’ve seen Midnight Express. But sometimes a look at life behind bars is a worthy way to pass an hour or two, especially when the jails themselves provide some fascinating history and some pretty impressive buildings. Read about the top five jails >