Stephen Travels


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What’s the Deal With Waffles?

Forget those frozen waffles in your freezer. Instead, reimagine them as a filling breakfast bounty, elevating your expectations to a higher level. Then make them Southern. Done? Now you have the Capitol Waffle Shop in downtown Richmond, Virginia, where “waffles are just pancakes with abs.” Read about it >


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Italy in Portugal

Troppo Squisito, Lisbon, PortugalOne of the largest squares in Portugal, Praça do Comércio in Lisbon seems to unconsciously draw people to its 329,000 square feet of space. Perhaps it’s for the cool breezes coming off the adjacent Tagus River, or for the shaded arcades of the yellow government buildings, or for one of the world’s most beautiful arches. Certainly, it’s partially for the restaurants with abundant outdoor seating framing three side of the plaza. One of them, Troppo Squisito, gives you an Italian option when you’re looking to break out from the Portuguese specialties you’ve been enjoying for a week. Read about it >


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Italian Heart, Portuguese Soul

Ris8otto, Porto, PortugalThe name of Ris8tto, the restaurant across the street from my hotel in Porto, Portugal, Infante Sagres, intrigued me. I liked the “8” that replaced the middle “o,” playing on the Italian otto, for eight, and its similar sound to the final syllable of risotto. And, of course, I like risotto. So it seemed like a good choice for dinner. The handful of outdoor tables were filling up quickly, so it also seemed like lots of other people had the same thought. We were all correct. Read about it >


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Classic Portuguese Culinary Creations at Sebastião

Sebastião, Lisbon, PortugalNobody was sitting at the tables at Sebastião yet. Good sign or bad? Granted, it was early for dinner in Lisbon, about 6:30, but I had built up an appetite from scrambling around the hilltop São Jorge Castle a couple of miles away, hiking up and down uneven stone staircases for sweeping views of the Portuguese capital and the Tagus River. The menu was appealing, so I decided to test the waters. The result: A risk well worth it. Read about it >


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A Hidden Gem Right Out in the Open

Fatto da Cláudio Coelho, Sintra, PortugalDon’t go to Sintra, Portugal, on the weekend—too crowded. Don’t go on Monday—too crowded. So I opted for Thursday. And? Too crowded. While the massive number of tourists at the key sites and restaurants in the heart of the city may sap your energy, you can find respite and a wonderful meal at the surprisingly uncrowded Fatto da Cláudio Coelho, just a five-minute walk from the throngs on a well-trod road. Read about it >


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Porto’s Vogue Café Defines Taste—and Tastiness

Vogue Cafe, Porto, PortugalI had been enjoying a generous breakfast spread at Infante Sagres, a luxury hotel in the heart of Porto, every morning for a week at the hotel’s Vogue Café. On my last night in town, I returned to the swanky café for dinner and was rewarded with the best meal of my entire trip to Portugal. Read about it >


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Dinner With a South American Connection in Porto, Portugal

Guarany Cafe, Porto, PortugalFreedom Square in the heart of Porto, Portugal, is bustling all day. At night, some of the city’s grandest buildings take on new life when illuminated in flattering white lights. One of them, Hotel Aliados, houses Guarany Café, a nearly century-old café and restaurant that acknowledges the South American Guarani Indians in a nod to Portugal’s colonization of Brazil that resulted in the smaller country’s coffee culture. It’s the perfect place to sit outdoors and enjoy both the view and a wonderful meal served by waiters who take their job very seriously. Read about it >


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Elevador Elevates the Dining Experience in Lisbon

Elevador, Lisbon, PortugalAlong a black-and-white–stone pedestrian street, just a few blocks from the handy, if always crowded, Santa Justa Lift that whisks you between the upper and lower parts of Lisbon, Portugal, I found the aptly named Elevador. With live fado music in the background, the setting is perfect for a wonderful meal in Baixa, the city’s historic heart and commercial center. Read about it >


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Dinner With the Sailor

O Marinheiro, Porto, PortugalDirectly across the street from my excellent hotel in Porto, Infante Sagres, a cluster of restaurants faces the odd tunnel that swallows up vehicular traffic in the middle of a square. They’re extremely popular, to the point where it was difficult to score a table. So I bumped up my dinner time earlier than the usual Portuguese tradition and took a seat at O Marinheiro, which translates as “the sailor.” Read about it >


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Bed and Dinner in Lisbon

Taberna 132, Lisbon, PortugalIn the popular Baixa neighborhood of Lisbon, Portugal, menus come in up to 12 languages and staff try to lure you into the touristy restaurants as you walk by. Fortunately, Taberna 132 wasn’t as aggressive, and the outdoor seating was inviting. It also just happened to be on the ground floor of my accommodations, Behotelisboa, and after a full day of exploring this exhaustingly hilly city, the thought of just retiring upstairs for the night after dinner made it even more appealing. Read about it >