Stephen Travels


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Montreal Churchgoers Are Particularly Blessed

Mountainside United Church, Montreal, QuebecI fully expected to see plenty of Catholic churches in Montreal, founded as a Roman Catholic colony by France. But once the British won the Seven Years’ War and English immigrants arrived, Protestant churches were soon rising among their neighbors. Nicknamed “la ville aux cent clochers” (the city of a hundred bell towers), Montreal, Quebec, teems with beautiful houses of worship of various denominations, including Canada’s largest church, the third-largest dome in the world, and a scaled-down replica of the Vatican City’s Basilica of St. Peter. Read more about the top five churches in Montreal >


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Lingering Over Lunch in Tivoli, Italy

L'Angolino di Mirko, Tivoli, ItalyA short day trip out of Rome took me to Tivoli, a smaller city of around 55,000 people about 25 miles northeast of the Italian capital. I traveled here specifically to see Villa d’Este, a 16th-century palace famed for the gardens and 51 fountains that spill down the hillside behind it. A full morning spent admiring the villa’s frescoes and climbing up and down some steep paths and staircases to appreciate the property had stirred my appetite. On my way back to the train station, I hunted for a spot for lunch where I could soak in the aura of this place. I found it perfectly captured at Ristorante L’Angolino di Mirko. Read more >


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The French Food Connection in Washington, D.C.

Not far from my hotel in Washington, D.C., and conveniently located just a block from the Metro station I was using on a regular basis, Café Soleil was the restaurant I kept passing by on my way elsewhere. Finally, after a week of exploring the American capital, including some of the city’s best churches and the fantastic interior of the Jefferson Building of the Library of Congress, I skirted around the restaurant’s flowerboxes and wrought-iron fence under the red awning and entered a heavenly petite slice of France. Read more >


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Five Reasons to Be Bowled Over by Boulder, Colorado

Celestial Seasonings, Boulder, ColoradoSometimes you need a couple of days to adjust to the vibe of a new locale, such as deciphering the byzantine mazes of Venice or ramping up your pace in midtown Manhattan. Other times, you instantly feel comfortable, as if you’re a native returning home to a place where you’ve always felt at ease. For me, Boulder, Colorado, was one of those rarities when I was instantly lovestruck. Rich in outdoor recreational opportunities, a thriving arts and culture scene, and a diverse array of restaurants, from Tajik to Brazilian to Italian, Boulder boasts everything a small city could possibly offer — and drops it all amid astounding scenery. Read more about the top five things to see and do in Boulder >


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All Things Irish in Washington, D.C.’s The Dubliner Restaurant

The Dubliner, Washington, D.C.On St. Patrick’s Day, when Irish folk celebrate this revered saint and everyone else is invited to wear something green and be Irish for the day, you could head to the Emerald Isle to explore Dublin’s top attractions, hike around Killarney National Park, or visit the country’s most beautiful churches. If your plans preclude that, you can still partake in the revelry by attending a parade or popping into an authentic Irish pub or restaurant in your hometown. And one of the places that does it best — right down to the music and the accents — is The Dubliner Restaurant and Pub in Washington, D.C. Read more about it >


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Delightful Domes That Grace City Skylines

Salta Cathedral, Salta, ArgentinaDomes. They’re one of the world’s most versatile architectural elements. Whether they’re topping iconic buildings like the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem, St. Basil’s Cathedral in Moscow, and the Taj Mahal in Agra, India, or they’re the buildings themselves, ranging from Eskimo igloos to Central Asian yurts to the geodesic dome in Henry Doorly Zoo in Omaha, Nebraska, domes add that final splash of panache to our built environments. Found throughout the world, they seem to be appreciated by just about everyone as the perfect way to top off a building in a graceful, elegant style. Read more about the world’s top five domes >


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Valletta’s Ambrosia Lives Up to Expectations of Its Name’s Connotations

I had spent a full week in Malta, that small Mediterranean island nation with a fascinating history, alluring beaches and architecture, and, very importantly, an outstanding, complex cuisine, served with aplomb at such stellar restaurants as Legligin Wine Bar, Palazzo Preca, and Capistrano. For my last night here, I headed to Ambrosia in the capital, Valletta. I figured that a restaurant named for the food of the Greek gods, with the promise of conferring longevity or immortality upon whoever partook of it, had to be good. And, to no surprise, it did not disappoint. Read more >


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The Best of Tenerife’s Best

Basilica of the Royal Marian Shrine of Our Lady of Candelaria, TenerifeDriving a rental car with progressively fewer and fewer mirrors around Tenerife, the largest and most populous of the Canary Islands about 62 miles off the coast of Morocco, presented increasing automotive challenges. But it also gave me the chance to develop a comprehensive picture of this Spanish island, from its surreal landscapes to its characteristic architecture to its nearly perfect climate and all that that permits. Read more about the top five things to do in Tenerife >


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Opa! It Will Be All Greek to You at Poros in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

Poros, Pittsburgh, PennsylvaniaGiven the diversity of dining options in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania — Polish, Thai, German, Peruvian, Italian, and so on — deciding on where to have dinner becomes a perplexing, but pleasant, problem. And strolling around the weekly farmers market in landmark Market Square, when more than 30 vendors purvey a wide variety of fruits and vegetables, fresh-pressed juices, milk, cheese, honey, and breads, will certainly put you in a gastronomic frame of mind. You can act immediately on that particular mental state without leaving the square by settling in for dinner at Poros, a stylish Greek estiatorio that’s a fine credit to its culture. Read more >


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The Deceptive Beauty of Oslo’s City Hall

City Hall, Oslo, NorwayEvery now and then, you will find a reason to visit a city hall other than to, say, pick up a marriage license or attend a meeting about your local school system. On such occasions, you may very well be delightfully surprised by what’s in store. The City Hall in Belfast, Northern Ireland, for instance, is a gorgeous building where I had the good fortune to meet the city’s mayor during my visit; Stockholm’s City Hall boasts gorgeous golden mosaics and an unbeatable view of the city from atop its tower. And while the austere exterior of the city hall in Oslo, Norway, may not attract you at first, this city hall is particularly chock full of history, stories, art, and superlatives, which became increasingly apparent to me the closer I got to it. Read more >