Stephen Travels

Tag Archives: Portugal


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Guiding Lights

Seven Foot Knoll Lighthouse, Baltimore, Maryland

Sentinels of the sea. Lighthouses have been around for a while. A long, long time, actually. One of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World was the Lighthouse of Alexandria in Egypt, completed around 246 BC. Since then, they’ve been protecting sailors around the world, evolving from simple fires atop a hill to sturdy structures that can withstand the fiercest weather and are equipped with powerful modern technology. Critically important, and fun to visit, lighthouses have long fascinated me with their relevance, their loneliness, and their unique beauty. Read about the top five lighthouses >


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A Fantastical Palace for a Portuguese Artist-King

National Palace of Pena, Sintra, PortugalDue to massive crowds, said every source I checked, avoid the city of Sintra, Portugal, on the weekends. Avoid the city on Mondays, they advised, when, again, it’s swamped with tourists, now because the museums in nearby Lisbon are closed. So, I went on a Thursday. Result? It didn’t matter. The National Palace of Pena—former summer home of Portuguese royalty, starting with King Ferdinand II—was jam-packed with people. But who can blame them? It’s the number-one tourist sight in Portugal, and deservedly so. Read about it >


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Feeling Blue

Urn, Lightner MuseumSuffering from the winter blues? Then turn your attention from the figurative blues to the literal ones and you’ll be much happier. Around the world, the coolest color has the ability to awe us. It’s also the color that can best calm us down. Just look at the sky or a tranquil sea and you’re already feeling better. But nature doesn’t hold a monopoly on blue. There are some outstanding manmade objects that equally do the trick. Read about the top five blues >


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As Straight as the Arrows That Almost Killed Him

National Gallery of Antique Art, RomeIf Cupid should hit you with an arrow, consider yourself lucky. If anyone else does, it’s going to hurt. A lot. And if multiple arrows pierce you, good luck. St. Sebastian should know. A courageous captain of the Praetorian Guards in the Imperial Roman army during the 200s, St. Sebastian, in the Christian canon of gruesome martyrdoms, suffered this particular form of torture for being a devout Christian, yet he didn’t die from his arrow wounds. Rather, he survived, aided by a pious woman, only to be clubbed to death shortly after for some bold lèse-majesté against Emperor Diocletian. Despite his ultimate fate, the saint, whose feast day is celebrated on January 20, is almost always pictured as an archer’s target practice. Read about the top five depictions of St. Sebastian >

 


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Tile Style

National Tile Museum, Lisbon, PortugalTile art is a common feature throughout the Mediterranean, and Lisbon has the best museum exclusively dedicated to it. After only a couple of days in the Portuguese capital, I knew I had to check it out. Throughout the city, and, indeed, the entire country, you’ll see this art form, called azulejo, everywhere, from the tiniest trinkets to the walls of the parrot house in Lisbon, from huge religious panels on the outsides of churches to grand historical scenes in São Bento railway station in Porto. And the National Tile Museum explains it all to you through its spectacular collection. Read about it >


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Italy in Portugal

Troppo Squisito, Lisbon, PortugalOne of the largest squares in Portugal, Praça do Comércio in Lisbon seems to unconsciously draw people to its 329,000 square feet of space. Perhaps it’s for the cool breezes coming off the adjacent Tagus River, or for the shaded arcades of the yellow government buildings, or for one of the world’s most beautiful arches. Certainly, it’s partially for the restaurants with abundant outdoor seating framing three side of the plaza. One of them, Troppo Squisito, gives you an Italian option when you’re looking to break out from the Portuguese specialties you’ve been enjoying for a week. Read about it >


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Italian Heart, Portuguese Soul

Ris8otto, Porto, PortugalThe name of Ris8tto, the restaurant across the street from my hotel in Porto, Portugal, Infante Sagres, intrigued me. I liked the “8” that replaced the middle “o,” playing on the Italian otto, for eight, and its similar sound to the final syllable of risotto. And, of course, I like risotto. So it seemed like a good choice for dinner. The handful of outdoor tables were filling up quickly, so it also seemed like lots of other people had the same thought. We were all correct. Read about it >


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Classic Portuguese Culinary Creations at Sebastião

Sebastião, Lisbon, PortugalNobody was sitting at the tables at Sebastião yet. Good sign or bad? Granted, it was early for dinner in Lisbon, about 6:30, but I had built up an appetite from scrambling around the hilltop São Jorge Castle a couple of miles away, hiking up and down uneven stone staircases for sweeping views of the Portuguese capital and the Tagus River. The menu was appealing, so I decided to test the waters. The result: A risk well worth it. Read about it >


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A Slice of Heaven—Without the Slice

Bowl of soup at Pizza BX, Porto, PortugalI was on the hunt for a casual lunch spot. Like cartoon waves of aroma floating in the air, the appetite-stirring smell of freshly made pizza lured me to the Pizza BX restaurant across the street from my hotel in Porto, Portugal, Infante Sagres. Upon close inspection of the various pies, however, I was disappointed—they looked soggy and unremarkable. However, the rest of the menu proved to be much more appealing and rewarding. Read about it >


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A Hidden Gem Right Out in the Open

Fatto da Cláudio Coelho, Sintra, PortugalDon’t go to Sintra, Portugal, on the weekend—too crowded. Don’t go on Monday—too crowded. So I opted for Thursday. And? Too crowded. While the massive number of tourists at the key sites and restaurants in the heart of the city may sap your energy, you can find respite and a wonderful meal at the surprisingly uncrowded Fatto da Cláudio Coelho, just a five-minute walk from the throngs on a well-trod road. Read about it >