Stephen Travels

Tag Archives: Lisbon


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Guiding Lights

Seven Foot Knoll Lighthouse, Baltimore, Maryland

Sentinels of the sea. Lighthouses have been around for a while. A long, long time, actually. One of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World was the Lighthouse of Alexandria in Egypt, completed around 246 BC. Since then, they’ve been protecting sailors around the world, evolving from simple fires atop a hill to sturdy structures that can withstand the fiercest weather and are equipped with powerful modern technology. Critically important, and fun to visit, lighthouses have long fascinated me with their relevance, their loneliness, and their unique beauty. Read about the top five lighthouses >


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As Straight as the Arrows That Almost Killed Him

National Gallery of Antique Art, RomeIf Cupid should hit you with an arrow, consider yourself lucky. If anyone else does, it’s going to hurt. A lot. And if multiple arrows pierce you, good luck. St. Sebastian should know. A courageous captain of the Praetorian Guards in the Imperial Roman army during the 200s, St. Sebastian, in the Christian canon of gruesome martyrdoms, suffered this particular form of torture for being a devout Christian, yet he didn’t die from his arrow wounds. Rather, he survived, aided by a pious woman, only to be clubbed to death shortly after for some bold lèse-majesté against Emperor Diocletian. Despite his ultimate fate, the saint, whose feast day is celebrated on January 20, is almost always pictured as an archer’s target practice. Read about the top five depictions of St. Sebastian >

 


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Italy in Portugal

Troppo Squisito, Lisbon, PortugalOne of the largest squares in Portugal, Praça do Comércio in Lisbon seems to unconsciously draw people to its 329,000 square feet of space. Perhaps it’s for the cool breezes coming off the adjacent Tagus River, or for the shaded arcades of the yellow government buildings, or for one of the world’s most beautiful arches. Certainly, it’s partially for the restaurants with abundant outdoor seating framing three side of the plaza. One of them, Troppo Squisito, gives you an Italian option when you’re looking to break out from the Portuguese specialties you’ve been enjoying for a week. Read about it >


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Classic Portuguese Culinary Creations at Sebastião

Sebastião, Lisbon, PortugalNobody was sitting at the tables at Sebastião yet. Good sign or bad? Granted, it was early for dinner in Lisbon, about 6:30, but I had built up an appetite from scrambling around the hilltop São Jorge Castle a couple of miles away, hiking up and down uneven stone staircases for sweeping views of the Portuguese capital and the Tagus River. The menu was appealing, so I decided to test the waters. The result: A risk well worth it. Read about it >


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Hell on Earth

Painting of Hell, Historical Museum of Gdansk, PolandIt’s as hot as hell. People from Arizona to Austin to Athens have all been saying it this summer. Again. Climate change has been setting our world on fire for years, and comparisons to that underworld of eternal heat and suffering are getting more and more realistic. But what of that actual place reserved, if you believe it, for unrepentant sinners? No one knows what it looks like (even if you visit Hell on Grand Cayman). But artists have imagined Hell in the most terrifying ways for centuries—and they’re enough to, well, scare the hell out of you while you’re still here on Earth. Read about the top five depictions of Hell >


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Elevador Elevates the Dining Experience in Lisbon

Elevador, Lisbon, PortugalAlong a black-and-white–stone pedestrian street, just a few blocks from the handy, if always crowded, Santa Justa Lift that whisks you between the upper and lower parts of Lisbon, Portugal, I found the aptly named Elevador. With live fado music in the background, the setting is perfect for a wonderful meal in Baixa, the city’s historic heart and commercial center. Read about it >


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Bed and Dinner in Lisbon

Taberna 132, Lisbon, PortugalIn the popular Baixa neighborhood of Lisbon, Portugal, menus come in up to 12 languages and staff try to lure you into the touristy restaurants as you walk by. Fortunately, Taberna 132 wasn’t as aggressive, and the outdoor seating was inviting. It also just happened to be on the ground floor of my accommodations, Behotelisboa, and after a full day of exploring this exhaustingly hilly city, the thought of just retiring upstairs for the night after dinner made it even more appealing. Read about it >


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How Great Thou Arch

They seem simple: vertical curved structures that span an open space and may, or may not, support weight above it. Of course, arches are much more complicated than that, a complex balance of compression, stress, thrust, bracings, and transference. The Mesopotamians got the jump on them four thousand years ago, but it was the Romans who used them systematically in a wide range of structures, leading eventually to a worldwide adaptation of this most beautiful form. Read about the top five arches >


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Portals to Greatness: The World’s Best Entryways

Canadian Parliament, Ottawa, OntarioFor better or worse, we often make snap decisions about books, or magazines, or people, by their cover. Sometimes we’re right, and the contents inside are as wonderful or as horrendous as we prejudged; sometimes we’re wrong, and exactly the opposite happens. When it comes to the world’s most magnificent building entrances, however, they never fail: They invariably lead to something magical inside, but they also always capture our attention, seducing us into admiring them on their own merit. Read more about the top five entryways in the world >