Stephen Travels


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More Than the Goddess of Wisdom: Minervas in Sioux Falls, South Dakota

Since it opened nearly 40 years ago, Minervas has expanded to 10 locations in the upper Midwest. But its original venue in Sioux Falls, South Dakota, is still the most elegant. I came upon it by accident, while I was roaming around the downtown area and admiring the artwork of the annual SculptureWalk dotting the sidewalks. The unassuming brick building featured an outdoor seating area of about a dozen tables protected from the street by globular planters overflowing with pink and yellow flowers and occupied by happy diners enjoying both their meals and the view of the historic 90-year-old State Theatre across the street. That — and the tantalizing menu under glass — was more than enough for me to step inside for dinner. Read more >


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Feel Like Family Over Dinner at Botticelli in Rapid City, South Dakota

Named for the Renaissance artist Sandro Botticelli, this downtown Rapid City eatery received both the Best of the Black Hills Award for Italian restaurants and the Wine Spectator Excellence Award in 2014. Recommended to me by some local cognoscenti, Botticelli has been serving hungry South Dakotans and visitors alike since 1997. And when you’re here, you almost feel like part of la famiglia. Read more >


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An Emporium for All Tastes in Scottsbluff, Nebraska

The “Coffeehouse and Café” part of the restaurant’s name seems to understate its offerings. But the “Emporium” part gets it right. Serving everything from buttery steaks to Greek salads, from wild mushroom ravioli to shrimp orecchiette, and boasting the most expansive wine list in the Nebraska panhandle, the Emporium Coffeehouse and Café in Scottsbluff prepares something for everyone. And after you’ve driven more than 400 miles across the entire state in one shot with barely a break, you’ll be ready to devour the entire menu. Read more >


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Beyond Haggis: Terrific Thai Cuisine in Glasgow, Scotland

If you’re in Glasgow, Scotland, and want to see irreplaceable architecture, you head to Style Mile along Buchanan Street. If you want to shop for any article of clothing imaginable, you head to Style Mile. Talented and not-so-talented street performers? You head to Style Mile. And if you want to have a terrific non-Scottish dinner in between all the haggis and sticky toffee pudding, you, of course, head to Style Mile — to Chaophraya, the best Thai restaurant in the city and the largest one in Europe. Read more >


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Authentic Estonian Food Among the Tourist Traps

I had spent a full day in Estonia outside of Tallinn’s Old Town — something few tourists to this fairy tale city do — with a knowledgeable private guide who took me to Lahemaa National Park, a few of its outstanding manor houses, and a rustic beach town where we had lunch at a bare-bones cafeteria-style eatery filled with Estonians enjoying a lovely summer day along the coast of one of the bays at the edges of the Gulf of Finland. When I returned to the terrific Savoy Boutique Hotel in the Old Town, I was still in a local frame of mind and began my search for some authentic Estonian food, perhaps not served by a wait staff dressed in medieval garb and setting my place with silver “weapons” to attack my meal. That meant avoiding Tallinn’s beautiful Town Hall Square, but it didn’t take very long at all before I found what I was looking for at Kuldse Notsu Kõrts, or the “Golden Piglet Inn.” Read more >


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Finding the Best Restaurant in Downtown Bismarck, North Dakota

An unexpected quiet had gently descended on the streets of North Dakota’s capital by 6 p.m. on a Wednesday. The few stores that weren’t boarded up had already closed for the night, nobody was strolling around, and the cars along East Main Avenue didn’t bother to stop. Not exactly deserted, but not exactly teeming with excitement, either. I became pensive as I considered returning to my car to start a search for a broader, or at least existing, range of restaurant choices for my final night in Bismarck. But then I spied signs of life at the historic, 10-story McKenzie Hotel, the tallest building in the city when it opened in 1911. It all centered around Peacock Alley — a fortuitous find for a terrific dinner. Read more >


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“Local. Really.” The Accurate (and Delicious) Mantra of The Skinny Pancake in Burlington, Vermont

Vermont’s largest city exudes small-town charm, particularly in its pedestrian-friendly downtown. Rising uphill from the cobalt-blue waters of Lake Champlain, Burlington bustles with knowledgeable locals, students from the University of Vermont and Champlain College, content families strolling along Church Street, and laid-back visitors taking it all in. Nowhere presents a better microcosm of this diverse population than The Skinny Pancake, a local eatery that seems to be jumping all day. You’ll be as likely to dine among college students as among yuppie families, aspiring musicians, fit cyclists, and German tourists, all while enjoying the best breakfast — and outstanding crêpes — in town. Read more >


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PM Buenos Aires Brings Argentinean Cuisine to Miami

PM Buenos Aires, Miami, FloridaThe pervasive Latin influence in Miami is inescapable, whether it’s the Mediterranean-style homes, the Spanish-language music emanating from clubs and cars, or the accents of residents from a couple of dozen Latin American countries. Ultimately, all of that will have you hankering for some food from south of the border. Just about every nation and cuisine is represented here, from Creole dishes in Little Haiti to a coronary-inducing but fantastic Cuban sandwich in Little Havana to Guatemalan bakeries. Near the top of the list is PM Buenos Aires, an upscale Argentinean establishment that served a dinner more delectable than any I had during a week in Buenos Aires itself. Read more >


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Lunching at Amsterdam’s Villa Zeezicht

With more than 1,000 restaurants to choose from in Amsterdam, ranging from Argentinean steak houses to Indonesian takeaway joints to traditional Dutch establishments, you’re never at a loss to satisfy any particular craving. Those located along the city’s famous canals, of course, boast the more charming setting. But even if you can’t get to enjoy the views at the often limited outdoor seating, you’ll still be satisfied with the fine meal you’ll be served at your indoor table. Villa Zeezicht is one of those lovely canal-side restaurants with a delicious menu that ultimately makes it irrelevant where you’re sitting. Read more >


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A Taste of the World at The Silk Road in Missoula

When I arrived in Montana, I was fully prepared to start consuming higher-than-normal quantities of beef. After all, this is a state where cattle outnumber people (2.6 million versus 1 million) and livestock makes up about two-thirds of the agriculture industry. No wonder that I had conjured up plentiful images of steaks and burgers. So I was a little suspicious and more than a little curious when the owners of the Gibson Mansion Bed & Breakfast where I was staying recommended a restaurant that had an international menu with dishes from countries as far-ranging as Japan, Ethiopia, and Austria. But their suggestion was spot-on, and dinner at The Silk Road proved to be a surprisingly cosmopolitan — and scrumptious — affair. Read more >