Stephen Travels


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Making the Rounds of Savannah’s Squares

Wesley Monumental United Methodist Church, Savannah, GeorgiaThe first planned city in what would become the United States was Savannah, Georgia, founded in 1733. It’s seductive, genteel, refined, beautiful, historical, sultry, mysterious—and imminently walkable. As I roamed the gorgeous streets of the city’s main historic district, in between all the buildings (every one of which has a fascinating history) and the palm, magnolia, sycamore, and live oak trees with their feathery Spanish moss, I was never very far from one of the district’s 22 squares, inviting green and shady spaces where you can relax and absorb the aura of America’s most atmospheric city. Read about them >


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German Goodness at the Only Schnitzel Bar in Richmond, Virginia

Cafe Rustika, Richmond, VirginiaIt may not feel exactly like a café or bar you would find in Germany, but it does capture a certain stimmung, a convivial mood that I often found when visiting Germany itself. I didn’t expect that in Richmond, Virginia, but Café Rustika pleasantly surprised me. Serving up German comfort food with smiles and raves for the chef’s creations, the staff here make you feel like you would, if you lived in town, come back again and again. Read about it >


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How to Satisfy Your Hankerin’ for Southern Food in Richmond

Tobacco Company Restaurant, Richmond, VirginiaOn my first night in Richmond, Virginia, I felt the need to go full-on Southern for dinner. Tobacco Company Restaurant certainly had the name that indicated it might fit the bill. And it delivered in a big way, with iconic Southern food, a very lively vibe, and a terrific backstory. Read about it >


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Fired Up

Royal Palace, Stirling Castle, Stirling, ScotlandOn a cold evening in late October in Granville, Ohio, I entered my accommodation, the Granville Inn, where the flames in the lobby fireplace greeted me and started to thaw me out, exorcising the chill from my body. With the northern half of the globe now ensconced in the winter season, I’m warmed by that memory. Amid all the snow and ice and freezing temperatures, one of the most welcome sights is a fire—well, a contained fire, such as in a fireplace, particularly a wood-burning fireplace, where you can become mesmerized by the dancing flames and the snap, crackle, and pop of the logs as they burn. Even without Christmas stockings that were hung there with care, fireplaces always provide a warm welcome. Read about the top five fireplaces >


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What’s the Deal With Waffles?

Forget those frozen waffles in your freezer. Instead, reimagine them as a filling breakfast bounty, elevating your expectations to a higher level. Then make them Southern. Done? Now you have the Capitol Waffle Shop in downtown Richmond, Virginia, where “waffles are just pancakes with abs.” Read about it >


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Great Churches in the Great Lakes State

Holy Rosary Roman Catholic Church, Detroit, MichiganBy some estimates, there are approximately 12,000 churches in Michigan. Declining attendance in these churches, no matter what the faith, means that many have closed permanently, and many more are headed in that direction, with the very real possibility of being razed. That would be a shame, because these are some very fine buildings that enhance the beauty of cities and towns all around the Great Lakes State. Read about the top five churches in Michigan >


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Marvelous Madison

Thai Pavilion, Olbrich Gardens, Madison, WisconsinOften ranked as one of the most livable cities in the United States, Madison, Wisconsin, gets it very right, which catapults onto a short list of places I’d like to live: a gorgeous setting between two lakes, a lively vibe generated from a massive university and as the state capital, plenty of cultural venues, and a smart restriction on the height of its skyline, limited to no more than 1,032’ for all structures within a mile of the state capitol in order to preserve the view of that building from most parts of the city. That means it’s a low-rise city, and it’s filled with terrific edifices of both historic importance and aesthetic glory. Read about the top five buildings in Madison, Wisconsin >


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Autumn in One of America’s Most Beautiful National Parks

Signal Mountain Lodge, Moran, WyomingKids were back in school, summer vacations were over, and the temperatures were cooling to my sweet spot: low 60s during the day, dipping down to the 40s at night. It was late September, and I had just spent a few days in Yellowstone National Park before heading south to Grand Teton National Park. I found it difficult to find the mot juste that would adequately describe the beauty of this park; I kept coming up short. Ultimately, I settled on “perfect,” the only word that could do Grand Teton justice. Read about it >


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Arkansas’ Attractive Architecture

Army-Navy Hospital, Hot Springs, ArkansasI wasn’t planning on spending much time in Arkansas’ cities. I was there to take part in the state’s wonderful nature, at its most irresistible during the fall foliage season. I was staying in Hot Springs more for its central location and proximity to Hot Springs National Park than for its built-up environment. How surprised I was, however, when I came upon some outstanding edifices that wonderfully complemented all my time out in the woods and on lakes. Read about the top five buildings in Arkansas >


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When Your College Dorm Used to Be a Hotel for the Super Rich

Dining Room, Flagler CollegeOn my way to a wedding farther south in Florida, I stopped for a few days in St. Augustine, one of that spectacular triumvirate of architecturally grand cities in the Southeast. I had already been to Charleston, South Carolina, and I’ve been to Savannah, Georgia, three times. St. Augustine, the oldest city in the United States (founded in 1565), was the standout, and I was thrilled to finally visit it. One of its many highlights is the incredible main building of Flagler College. Formerly a majestic hotel, it now functions mostly as a dorm. It’s still so beautiful that it offers tours not only to prospective students, but to the general public, and it’s filled with an abundance of treats and secrets. Read about it >