Stephen Travels


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Luxembourg Luxe: Staying at the Grand Hotel Cravat

Grand Hotel Cravat, LuxembourgI had been to France. I had been to Germany. Now I was in Belgium, the third and final country that surrounds Luxembourg. It was now or never for this small European nation, so I tacked on an extra five days for my vacation and based myself at the four-star Grand Hotel Cravat in Luxembourg City, one of the prettiest and smallest European capitals. Read about it >


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Belgian Specialties at Balto’s

Balto's, Antwerp, BelgiumIt’s a little touristy, but it’s touristy for a reason—the Grote Markt (Large Market) at the heart of Antwerp is simply gorgeous. Guild houses from the 16th and 17th centuries frame the cobblestone square, anchored by the impressive City Hall and featuring the curious Brabo’s Monument and Fountain, with the massive Cathedral of Our Lady overlooking it all from a couple of blocks away. There are plenty of restaurants here to choose from, each with outdoor seating, partially covered for inclement weather and open-air for days when you just want to linger outside. I was here for dinner, and I happily settled in at Balto’s, located in a beautifully restored historic manor house. Read about it >


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¡Viva España!—in Belgium

Hispania, Brussels, BelgiumAcross the cobblestone street from a church completed in the 15th century and next to a Belgian chocolate shop, I headed to dinner during my second night in Brussels at the internationally recognized and lauded Hispania, an upscale Spanish restaurant with a fine pedigree, including the Michelin-star chef. There would be plenty of time for Belgian waffles, beer, chocolate, and other national specialties later on, but this night was all about Spain. Read about it >


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Invest Some Time in a Buffalo Bank

Buffalo Savings Bank, Buffalo, New YorkThe Buffalo Savings Bank building, in downtown Buffalo, New York, is always pretty: during the day, or when it warms up with the setting sun in the evening, or when the inside lights glow through giant arched windows at night. That was impressive enough, but when I stepped inside to take a look, it quickly became one of my favorite bank buildings in the world. Read about it >


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Snack Time

CupCake Omaha!, Omaha, NebraskaAt some point during the day, you’re feeling peckish. It’s too early or late for a full meal, but you want something to tide you over while you go on the next hike or visit the next cathedral. For me, these unanticipated little hunger pangs occur suddenly, and that’s when I just start looking around for whatever’s at hand that seems like it would fit the bill. In this way, I’ve discovered some local places that I easily would have overlooked—and that I heartily recommend. Read about them >


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Underrated Zagreb’s Best Buildings

Croatian Railways Headquarters, ZagrebWith good reason, visitors to Croatia flock to and concentrate on its gorgeous Adriatic coast and such unmistakable cities as Split and Dubrovnik. But there’s more to this country than its enviable coastline, verdant islands, and pristine beaches. A simple detour east brought me to Zagreb, one of the most underrated capitals in Europe and one of its most surprising, filled with great (and uncrowded) restaurants, fun markets, tons of museums, and striking architecture. Read about the top five buildings in Zagreb >


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Back to Basics at Café Leffe

Café Leffe, Brussels, BelgiumThe rain had been falling on and off all day, an ongoing source of irritation as one struggles with map, camera, and umbrella. By the end of the unseasonably chilly day in Brussels, I was ready for solid, straightforward comfort food as close as possible to my hotel. I was staying at 9Hotel Sablon in the Sablon neighborhood, and just around the corner, at the end of the cobblestone Place du Grand Sablon, I found what I was looking for at Café Leffe. Read about it >


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Charming Canalside Accommodations in Bruges

Breakfast Room, Hotel Ter Duinen, Bruges, BelgiumWith its medieval glories, seductive canals, and the seemingly always-present mouthwatering aromas of chocolate and waffles in the air, Bruges, Belgium, boasts an undeniable appeal for visitors. That’s both good and bad—increased tourism has resurrected the city and its economy, but it’s also edging toward the point of becoming over-touristed, especially during the summer. Fortunately, once you head away from the bull’s-eye tourist hotspots in the city’s main squares and along the most photographed canals, you can experience a quieter Bruges that holds its own special allure. One of the best ways to enjoy that is by staying at Hotel Ter Duinen, close enough to the city’s main attractions via a 15-minute walk or convenient bus ride, yet removed enough to envelope you in the undisturbed tranquility of one of Europe’s best-preserved cities. Read about it >


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Caribbean Dreamin’

Beach, ArubaMy first trip to the Caribbean was to St. Martin, which also included a high-speed catamaran to St. Barts and a slow ferry with airplane passenger seats to Anguilla. My second was aboard a Royal Caribbean cruise ship that called at half a dozen islands. Since then, I’ve returned to the Caribbean multiple times, always to different islands, each with its own personality and vibe, all with outstanding beaches, friendly locals, terrific food, and interesting sights. It remains my go-to vacation spot when I want a vacation away from my frenetic trips elsewhere. Read about the top five Caribbean islands >


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Tile Style

National Tile Museum, Lisbon, PortugalTile art is a common feature throughout the Mediterranean, and Lisbon has the best museum exclusively dedicated to it. After only a couple of days in the Portuguese capital, I knew I had to check it out. Throughout the city, and, indeed, the entire country, you’ll see this art form, called azulejo, everywhere, from the tiniest trinkets to the walls of the parrot house in Lisbon, from huge religious panels on the outsides of churches to grand historical scenes in São Bento railway station in Porto. And the National Tile Museum explains it all to you through its spectacular collection. Read about it >