On a cold evening in late October in Granville, Ohio, I entered my accommodation, the Granville Inn, where the flames in the lobby fireplace greeted me and started to thaw me out, exorcising the chill from my body. With the northern half of the globe now ensconced in the winter season, I’m warmed by that memory. Amid all the snow and ice and freezing temperatures, one of the most welcome sights is a fire—well, a contained fire, such as in a fireplace, particularly a wood-burning fireplace, where you can become mesmerized by the dancing flames and the snap, crackle, and pop of the logs as they burn. Even without Christmas stockings that were hung there with care, fireplaces always provide a warm welcome. Read about the top five fireplaces >
Tag Archives: Poland
Hell on Earth
It’s as hot as hell. People from Arizona to Austin to Athens have all been saying it this summer. Again. Climate change has been setting our world on fire for years, and comparisons to that underworld of eternal heat and suffering are getting more and more realistic. But what of that actual place reserved, if you believe it, for unrepentant sinners? No one knows what it looks like (even if you visit Hell on Grand Cayman). But artists have imagined Hell in the most terrifying ways for centuries—and they’re enough to, well, scare the hell out of you while you’re still here on Earth. Read about the top five depictions of Hell >
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Warsaw Saw War—and Then Rebuilt Its Churches as if Nothing Had Happened
I wasn’t surprised by the number and the beauty of the churches in the overwhelmingly Catholic city of Warsaw, Poland, where three-quarters of the population of 1.8 million identify as Roman Catholic. I was surprised, however, by how many of them had been obliterated during World War II and then rebuilt. Some took on a simpler variation of the original, but many were restored to their baroque, rococo, and neoclassical glory. Read about the top five churches in Warsaw >
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Baptismal Fonts That Make a Memorable Splash
Baptism is the first step to becoming a Christian. In fact, it grants admission into the Church. It’s usually accompanied during a religious service with a sprinkling of water on the forehead, but sometimes it involves a full-body immersion. Whichever method is used, churches around the world accommodate it with a variety of baptismal fonts, from the modest to the mammoth, and I’ve found many of them to be striking works of art. Read about the top five baptismal fonts >
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Which Last Suppers Are First?
As Easter approaches, Christianity’s most important holidays and events unfold at a breakneck pace: Jesus’ Condemnation, Crucifixion, Disposition, and Entombment (all represented in the Stations of the Cross), and Resurrection. It all starts with the Last Supper, when Jesus gathered his 12 Apostles for a final meal, called out Peter as His soon-to-be denier, and basically let Judas identify himself as His imminent betrayer. For centuries, this momentous meal has been captured in art, and I’ve seen it depicted in all kinds of media around the world. Read about the top five depictions of the Last Supper >
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Malbork Castle Will Hit You Like 10,125 Tons of Bricks
As soon as I learned about the major attraction in Malbork, Poland, I knew I had to take a side trip from my base in Gdansk, an hour to the northwest by train. I couldn’t resist seeing the largest brick structure ever built—Malbork Castle. At the size of about 40 U.S. football fields and with its oldest parts going back to the 1200s, this massive complex had the sudden and significant impact on me that its statistics assured me it would. Read more about Malbork Castle >
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Bodies of Work
If you feel like the weight of the world is sometimes pressing down on you, imagine if an actual building were doing the same thing. Since the sixth century BC in ancient Greece, stone women have been supporting entablatures on their heads; their male counterparts came along a little later, in the Greek cities in Sicily and southern Italy. These caryatids and atlantids not only served a practical function, as a column or pillar to support the weight of a structure, but they also added impressive panache. Read about the top five atlantids and caryatids >
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The Most Heavenly Celestial Intermediaries, Protectors, and Guides
Angels are a common motif during the Christmas season (particularly noteworthy is Clarence in the classic It’s a Wonderful Life, and in the holiday markets in Düsseldorf, Germany), but they’re not restricted to December. You can find them throughout the year, in myriad locations and captured in various materials and emotional states, from joyful angels blowing horns to mournful ones grieving at gravesites. You may even have one of the guardian type of your own. Read about the top five angels >
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Kraków’s Divine Churches
Kraków, like most other major cities in Poland, has lived through a tumultuous history. From glory days as the nation’s capital to a widespread conflagration that burned it to the ground, from being shunted aside under the Austrian Empire to resurgent pride when its most famous resident, Karol Wojtyla, became Pope John Paul II, from intense air pollution from Soviet-built steelworks to its role as the country’s leading tourist destination, Kraków is a survivor. And, for centuries, its sturdy citizens have steadily found courage and hope in the city’s gorgeous houses of worship. Read about the top five churches in Kraków, Poland >
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A Good Laugh Is a Mighty Good Thing
Herman Melville said it best in Moby-Dick: “A good laugh is a mighty good thing, and rather too scarce a good thing.” Published in 1851, Melville’s statement could not be more pertinent today. Let’s face it: In light of a disturbing pandemic, food and hand sanitizer shortages, insufficient health care procedures, quarantines, and a constant barrage of bad news and “Breaking News” from CNN that instantly makes you think, “What fresh hell is this?!”, we need a good laugh to relieve the tension, if only for a moment or two. Without further ado, from my travels around the world, here are the top five sights that will make you laugh >
Stephen Travels 