Stephen Travels


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A Quintet of Canadian Pyramids

Muttart ConservatoryLike a postmodern Giza — but in a much colder clime — the five glass pyramids of Muttart Conservatory rise above the trees on a hillside in a quiet residential section of Edmonton, Alberta. For almost 40 years, Muttart has been welcoming visitors (and brides) to its indoor botanical garden, and when local meteorologists are far from accurate and you’re faced with a day that’s about 20 degrees colder than predicted, it’s a great place to escape indoors. Read more >


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Dining — and Definitely Wining — in Mendoza

Finca Decero Vineyard, Mendoza, ArgentinaThe symbiotic relationship between wine and the city of Mendoza, Argentina, simply cannot be overstated — a connection that made itself abundantly clear to me when I stepped off the plane in Mendoza, exited the terminal, and caught sight of a vineyard on the grounds of the airport. To really absorb it all, I headed off to sample some of the region’s best varietals and blends at a few of the hundreds of wineries around town, including Finca Decero, where a gorgeous setting and a fantastic meal awaited me. Read more >


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Miracles in Québec

Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupre, QuebecCancer. Malignant tumors. Nonfunctioning limbs. Chronic cardiac conditions. The human body can trap us within ourselves for years, even decades, whenever it decides to malfunction or sustains an attack. When the situation appears hopeless, and medicines and treatments fail, we often start to look for a little extra help outside hospital wards. For half a million people every year, that assistance comes in the form of a pilgrimage to the Basilica of Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré in Québec. And when the impossible happens, and they’re cured of the incurable, they come back to say thanks. Read more >


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Five Post Offices That Truly Deliver

Post Office, Ljubljana, SloveniaIn the present era of instantaneous communication and e-everything, post offices around the world are in serious decline. But it wasn’t all that long ago when post offices were the lifeline of nations, delivering long-anticipated letters, critical documents, history-making news, and packages of all shapes and sizes. Their vital importance was reflected in the grandeur of the buildings that housed them . Although some of them no longer serve their original purpose, these are my five favorite post offices in the world. Read more >


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Sleep More in Seattle

Sorrento Hotel, SeattleFor more than a century, the Sorrento Hotel has been providing luxurious rest for guests ranging from President Taft to Kelly Clarkson. It is Seattle’s oldest boutique hotel and oldest hotel still serving its original purpose. Conjuring images of an enormous Italian palazzo, the Sorrento is that perfect combination of historic ambience and modern convenience. Read more>


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My Own Private Estonia

Sagadi ManorAfter three days in the captivating capital of Estonia, it was time to escape from the almost inescapable clusters of day-tripping tourists from massive cruise ships who have inadvertently edged Tallinn toward becoming a Disney-esque caricature of itself. So I hit the road with Martin, a local university student majoring in social sciences, for a private look at the Estonia that wasn’t overflowing with medieval-themed restaurants and countless amber shops. Read more >


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Detroit’s Endangered Art: Now You See It…

The Jewish CemeteryMotown’s current problems are epic, and it seems unlikely that Detroit will be able to pay off its $18 billion in debt any time soon. One disturbing solution that has been suggested is to sell off the city’s artwork housed in the Detroit Institute of Arts. Pillaging one of the nation’s top art museums is a short-sighted and ignorant answer to a complex problem, yet it has now entered the realm of possibility. So before anyone can act on it and commit this enormous error, make sure you schedule a visit to the DIA to appreciate some of the most exceptional art in the United States. Read more >


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Five Aerial Tramways With Outstanding Views

Banff National ParkThey’ll take you up hundreds or thousands of feet to summits and peaks in just a few minutes, rewarding you with unbeatable views of twisting rivers, endless mountain chains, or entire cities. Whether you’re enclosed in a cable car by yourself or with two dozen other people, the silent journey — aside from being an engineering feat — imparts views that grow more dazzling the higher you climb. These are my five favorite aerial tramways in the world. Read more >


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Missouri’s Mosaic Marvel

Cathedral Basilica, St. Louis, MissouriThe Cathedral Basilica of St. Louis is much more than just the seat of the city’s archdiocese. It’s the home of the world’s largest collection of mosaic tiles — 41.5 million tiles, to be exact, in more than 7,000 colors that cover a total area of 83,000 square feet. From the second you step inside, you’ll be dazzled by the masterful work created by 20 artists over the course of 75 years. Read more >


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Driving Without Mirrors in the Canary Islands

Mountain in TenerifeThe Spanish island of Tenerife, the most populous of the Canary Islands off the coast of Africa, is a treasure trove of natural wonders: volcanoes, craters, pine forests, strange rock formations, glorious sunsets, countless wildflowers, rugged mountains, and beaches of yellow, white and black sand. The best way to delve into it all is via car. But can you truly enjoy your ride when all the mirrors on your vehicle begin to fall off or vanish? Read more >