Stephen Travels


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Live Like Royalty in a Hotel Owned by a Baron

Le Plaza Hotel, Brussels, BelgiumWhen a baron and baroness own a hotel, you can much pretty rest assured that you’re going to be treated to a good deal of luxury. At Le Plaza Hotel, that comes in the form of spacious and immaculately kept rooms, a giant breakfast spread, attentive service, and architectural grandeur. And for a very affordable price, I upgraded to a junior suite in one of the last independent hotels in Brussels as well as one of its oldest and most historic. Read about it >


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As Straight as the Arrows That Almost Killed Him

National Gallery of Antique Art, RomeIf Cupid should hit you with an arrow, consider yourself lucky. If anyone else does, it’s going to hurt. A lot. And if multiple arrows pierce you, good luck. St. Sebastian should know. A courageous captain of the Praetorian Guards in the Imperial Roman army during the 200s, St. Sebastian, in the Christian canon of gruesome martyrdoms, suffered this particular form of torture for being a devout Christian, yet he didn’t die from his arrow wounds. Rather, he survived, aided by a pious woman, only to be clubbed to death shortly after for some bold lèse-majesté against Emperor Diocletian. Despite his ultimate fate, the saint, whose feast day is celebrated on January 20, is almost always pictured as an archer’s target practice. Read about the top five depictions of St. Sebastian >

 


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¡Viva España!—in Belgium

Hispania, Brussels, BelgiumAcross the cobblestone street from a church completed in the 15th century and next to a Belgian chocolate shop, I headed to dinner during my second night in Brussels at the internationally recognized and lauded Hispania, an upscale Spanish restaurant with a fine pedigree, including the Michelin-star chef. There would be plenty of time for Belgian waffles, beer, chocolate, and other national specialties later on, but this night was all about Spain. Read about it >


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Back to Basics at Café Leffe

Café Leffe, Brussels, BelgiumThe rain had been falling on and off all day, an ongoing source of irritation as one struggles with map, camera, and umbrella. By the end of the unseasonably chilly day in Brussels, I was ready for solid, straightforward comfort food as close as possible to my hotel. I was staying at 9Hotel Sablon in the Sablon neighborhood, and just around the corner, at the end of the cobblestone Place du Grand Sablon, I found what I was looking for at Café Leffe. Read about it >


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Gazebo Gazing

Marigot Market Gazebo, Marigot, St. MartinThey come in many shapes, sizes, materials, and colors, but gazebos share lots of commonalities, all of which appeal to me. They offer shelter from rain or sizzling sunshine. They’re a pleasant place to rest. They often take advantage of dreamy or dramatic views. They can double as bandstands during outdoor parties and celebrations. And, well, they’re just plain pretty to look at. Read about the top five gazebos >


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Which Last Suppers Are First?

Last Supper, National Museum, Warsaw, PolandAs Easter approaches, Christianity’s most important holidays and events unfold at a breakneck pace: Jesus’ Condemnation, Crucifixion, Disposition, and Entombment (all represented in the Stations of the Cross), and Resurrection. It all starts with the Last Supper, when Jesus gathered his 12 Apostles for a final meal, called out Peter as His soon-to-be denier, and basically let Judas identify himself as His imminent betrayer. For centuries, this momentous meal has been captured in art, and I’ve seen it depicted in all kinds of media around the world. Read about the top five depictions of the Last Supper >


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How Great Thou Arch

They seem simple: vertical curved structures that span an open space and may, or may not, support weight above it. Of course, arches are much more complicated than that, a complex balance of compression, stress, thrust, bracings, and transference. The Mesopotamians got the jump on them four thousand years ago, but it was the Romans who used them systematically in a wide range of structures, leading eventually to a worldwide adaptation of this most beautiful form. Read about the top five arches >


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Going Directly to Jail

Old Lewis and Clark County Jail, Helena, MontanaGoing to prison while on vacation is not exactly on anyone’s itinerary, especially if you’ve seen Midnight Express. But sometimes a look at life behind bars is a worthy way to pass an hour or two, especially when the jails themselves provide some fascinating history and some pretty impressive buildings. Read about the top five jails >