Stephen Travels


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Music in the Sky: The World’s Best Bell Towers

Cathedral of St. Domnius, SplitI’ve had the opportunity to ring the bells at the Church of St. Anne Shandon in Cork, Ireland, and at the Church of the Assumption on an island in Lake Bled, Slovenia. But, for the most part, my experiences with bell towers have been restricted to admiring their vertical beauty and listening to their heavenly music, and that’s rewarding enough. No matter their purpose, from cheerful chimes on college campuses to somber tolling marking a funeral, bell towers make for striking exclamation points in a cityscape. Read about the top five bell towers >


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History, Poetry, and Food at Café Nicola

Founded in the 18th century as one of the first coffee shops in Lisbon, Portugal, Café Nicola attracted the cultural elites and intelligentsia. Now, after a handful of changes, including its name, it attracted me. Facing Rossio Square, it’s a lively place to soak in the history of the café, its Art Deco interior, and an extensive menu. Read about it >


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California Is Golden for Many Reasons

Old Sacramento, CaliforniaThe third-largest state in the United States—and arguably the most famed, iconic, referenced, idealized, and vilified—California has always been many things to many people, from the 300,000 indigenous people who lived here before the Europeans showed up, to miners with gold fever who flocked here in the mid-1800s, to drought-weary Okies looking for salvation during the Dust Bowl era of the 1930s. Now, even if you’re not an aspiring actress lured by the glitz of Hollywood, or a granola or surfer dude looking to live off the grid, the Golden State and its vast array of attractions will lure you here and inevitably make an indelible impression upon you. Read about the top five things to see and do in California >


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An Architectural Adventure in Helena, Montana

Former First National Bank, Helena, MontanaMidway through Big Sky Country, between Glacier National Park and Yellowstone National Park, I took a little urban break in Helena. To me, the capital of Montana felt less urban than suburban. Strolling around this open, breathable city is a delight, from the pedestrian mall downtown to the spectacular Mansion District, one of the best historic districts in the United States, offering some memorable architectural surprises. Read about the top five buildings in Helena >


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Porto’s Vogue Café Defines Taste—and Tastiness

Vogue Cafe, Porto, PortugalI had been enjoying a generous breakfast spread at Infante Sagres, a luxury hotel in the heart of Porto, every morning for a week at the hotel’s Vogue Café. On my last night in town, I returned to the swanky café for dinner and was rewarded with the best meal of my entire trip to Portugal. Read about it >


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Architectural Stars in the North Star State

Landmark Center, St. Paul, MinnesotaI’ve been to Minnesota three times—once on a lark in late autumn when an unexpected snowstorm necessitated purchases of gloves and hats, once on a quick business trip to do a press check at a former job, and once as a starting point for a two-week romp around the Dakotas. None of them were long enough to completely immerse myself in the 12th-largest state in the United States, yet they did afford me the opportunity to check out some of the state’s more than 10,000 lakes as well as its striking architecture. Read about the top five buildings in Minnesota >


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Hell on Earth

Painting of Hell, Historical Museum of Gdansk, PolandIt’s as hot as hell. People from Arizona to Austin to Athens have all been saying it this summer. Again. Climate change has been setting our world on fire for years, and comparisons to that underworld of eternal heat and suffering are getting more and more realistic. But what of that actual place reserved, if you believe it, for unrepentant sinners? No one knows what it looks like (even if you visit Hell on Grand Cayman). But artists have imagined Hell in the most terrifying ways for centuries—and they’re enough to, well, scare the hell out of you while you’re still here on Earth. Read about the top five depictions of Hell >


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Dinner With a South American Connection in Porto, Portugal

Guarany Cafe, Porto, PortugalFreedom Square in the heart of Porto, Portugal, is bustling all day. At night, some of the city’s grandest buildings take on new life when illuminated in flattering white lights. One of them, Hotel Aliados, houses Guarany Café, a nearly century-old café and restaurant that acknowledges the South American Guarani Indians in a nod to Portugal’s colonization of Brazil that resulted in the smaller country’s coffee culture. It’s the perfect place to sit outdoors and enjoy both the view and a wonderful meal served by waiters who take their job very seriously. Read about it >


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Holy Harrisburg!

St. Lawrence Catholic Church, Harrisburg, PennsylvaniaHarrisburg was a one-day stopover on my drive between Indianapolis and my home in New York. I had always wanted to see the Pennsylvania state capitol, and after checking in to the wonderful Manor on Front, I strolled along the Susquehanna River to my destination. The capitol’s massive green dome is certainly impressive, but so is the surprising number of lovely churches packed into a relatively small downtown. Read about the top five churches in Harrisburg, Pennsylvania >


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A Temporary Life of Luxury in Porto

If you’re going to splurge on a place to stay in Porto, Portugal, then you’d be wise to choose Infante Sagres. For more than 70 years, this elegant fixture in the city’s accommodations has been providing five-star service to everyone from Bob Dylan to the queen of the Netherlands, and now me. Combining polished elegance, Old World attention to detail and contemporary comforts, outstanding service, and an enviable location, Infante Sagres practically guarantees you a highly memorable stay. Read about it >