Stephen Travels


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Up, Up, and a Wow!

Ceiling, Saint Fin Barre's Cathedral, Cork, IrelandWhile lying on my back in my apartment and fighting off a mild case of COVID, I had plenty of time to stare at my ceilings—outdated, white, popcorn ceilings with a little crack way over there in the corner. In between mental debates over whether I should have them smoothed over and redone, I also had an abundance of time to reflect on other ceilings I’ve seen around the world—outrageously beautiful works of art that will make you want to look up and spend hours marveling over their perfection. Read about the top five ceilings >


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Classic Portuguese Culinary Creations at Sebastião

Sebastião, Lisbon, PortugalNobody was sitting at the tables at Sebastião yet. Good sign or bad? Granted, it was early for dinner in Lisbon, about 6:30, but I had built up an appetite from scrambling around the hilltop São Jorge Castle a couple of miles away, hiking up and down uneven stone staircases for sweeping views of the Portuguese capital and the Tagus River. The menu was appealing, so I decided to test the waters. The result: A risk well worth it. Read about it >


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Marvelous Madison

Thai Pavilion, Olbrich Gardens, Madison, WisconsinOften ranked as one of the most livable cities in the United States, Madison, Wisconsin, gets it very right, which catapults onto a short list of places I’d like to live: a gorgeous setting between two lakes, a lively vibe generated from a massive university and as the state capital, plenty of cultural venues, and a smart restriction on the height of its skyline, limited to no more than 1,032’ for all structures within a mile of the state capitol in order to preserve the view of that building from most parts of the city. That means it’s a low-rise city, and it’s filled with terrific edifices of both historic importance and aesthetic glory. Read about the top five buildings in Madison, Wisconsin >


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Autumn in One of America’s Most Beautiful National Parks

Signal Mountain Lodge, Moran, WyomingKids were back in school, summer vacations were over, and the temperatures were cooling to my sweet spot: low 60s during the day, dipping down to the 40s at night. It was late September, and I had just spent a few days in Yellowstone National Park before heading south to Grand Teton National Park. I found it difficult to find the mot juste that would adequately describe the beauty of this park; I kept coming up short. Ultimately, I settled on “perfect,” the only word that could do Grand Teton justice. Read about it >


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Arkansas’ Attractive Architecture

Army-Navy Hospital, Hot Springs, ArkansasI wasn’t planning on spending much time in Arkansas’ cities. I was there to take part in the state’s wonderful nature, at its most irresistible during the fall foliage season. I was staying in Hot Springs more for its central location and proximity to Hot Springs National Park than for its built-up environment. How surprised I was, however, when I came upon some outstanding edifices that wonderfully complemented all my time out in the woods and on lakes. Read about the top five buildings in Arkansas >


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A Slice of Heaven—Without the Slice

Bowl of soup at Pizza BX, Porto, PortugalI was on the hunt for a casual lunch spot. Like cartoon waves of aroma floating in the air, the appetite-stirring smell of freshly made pizza lured me to the Pizza BX restaurant across the street from my hotel in Porto, Portugal, Infante Sagres. Upon close inspection of the various pies, however, I was disappointed—they looked soggy and unremarkable. However, the rest of the menu proved to be much more appealing and rewarding. Read about it >


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When Your College Dorm Used to Be a Hotel for the Super Rich

Dining Room, Flagler CollegeOn my way to a wedding farther south in Florida, I stopped for a few days in St. Augustine, one of that spectacular triumvirate of architecturally grand cities in the Southeast. I had already been to Charleston, South Carolina, and I’ve been to Savannah, Georgia, three times. St. Augustine, the oldest city in the United States (founded in 1565), was the standout, and I was thrilled to finally visit it. One of its many highlights is the incredible main building of Flagler College. Formerly a majestic hotel, it now functions mostly as a dorm. It’s still so beautiful that it offers tours not only to prospective students, but to the general public, and it’s filled with an abundance of treats and secrets. Read about it >


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Bring On Brunch!

Hudson House River Inn, Cold Spring, New YorkWho doesn’t love the occasional weekend brunch? Certainly not anyone in Brooklyn Heights, New York, where I live, and where that special weekend meal brings in the crowds to any place that serves brunch, resulting in lines that spill out onto the sidewalk. No matter; I’ve enjoyed lingering over this smash-up meal in many places outside of my neighborhood, in far more appealing surroundings than, say, Atlantic Avenue. Read about the top five brunches >


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The Best Buildings in Portland, Oregon

The Old Church, Portland, OregonKnown for its focus on urban planning, Portland, Oregon, takes its architecture seriously. It’s second only to Chicago in the number of LEED-accredited “green buildings” in the United States and is steadfast in preserving and repurposing older buildings. Height restrictions on new construction preserve views of Mt. Hood. But as I roamed around this likable city, I found that the most impressive buildings were those that predated the concept of urban planning. Read about the top five buildings in Portland >


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A Hidden Gem Right Out in the Open

Fatto da Cláudio Coelho, Sintra, PortugalDon’t go to Sintra, Portugal, on the weekend—too crowded. Don’t go on Monday—too crowded. So I opted for Thursday. And? Too crowded. While the massive number of tourists at the key sites and restaurants in the heart of the city may sap your energy, you can find respite and a wonderful meal at the surprisingly uncrowded Fatto da Cláudio Coelho, just a five-minute walk from the throngs on a well-trod road. Read about it >