Stephen Travels


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Dinner With a Mexican-Honduran Flair

Chela's Latin Cuisine, Tucson, ArizonaChela’s Latin Cuisine was ready for Halloween. Spiders climbed along the walls, cobwebs fluttered in the air being stirred by the air-conditioning, and skeletons saluted and waved to you (or beckoned you, if you’re in a darker mood). I had a feeling that any other holiday—or any regular day, for that matter—would be just as festive. A new addition to the downtown Tucson restaurant scene, Chela’s serves up a great Mexican-Honduran menu, served by some pleasantly chatty waiters. Read about it >


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Louisiana’s Best Buildings

Old Post Office, Baton RougeWhen I was in Louisiana, twice, I knew I was in the deep Deep South: the jazz, the Creole culture, the Spanish moss on the live oak trees, the accents, the alligator nuggets for lunch. And, of course, the wonderful architecture that makes the Pelican State so memorable. Read about the top five buildings in Louisiana >


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Everyting Is Irie in Richmond, Mon

My first few nights and early mornings in Richmond, Virginia, were shockingly cold for early November. That put me in the mood for something warm and cozy for dinner. And I found it on a quiet corner of downtown in the form of Irie Ting Jamaican Grill. Read about it >


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Invest Some Time in a Buffalo Bank

Buffalo Savings Bank, Buffalo, New YorkThe Buffalo Savings Bank building, in downtown Buffalo, New York, is always pretty: during the day, or when it warms up with the setting sun in the evening, or when the inside lights glow through giant arched windows at night. That was impressive enough, but when I stepped inside to take a look, it quickly became one of my favorite bank buildings in the world. Read about it >


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Once Bitten, Twice Shy: How a Restaurant in Richmond Redeemed Ethiopian Food for Me

Addis Ethiopian Restaurant, Richmond, VirginiaI had eaten Ethiopian food only once, in Washington, D.C. (often ranked as one of the best U.S. cities for this cuisine), and, frankly, it was gross. But that was three decades ago, so when I came across Addis Ethiopian Restaurant in Richmond, Virginia, I was eager (and a bit apprehensive) to give it a second chance to cure my aversion. Read about it >


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Oklahoma’s Churches Are More Than OK

First Christian Church, Tulsa, OklahomaAdolf Hitler in stained glass. Dogs attending services. An Art Deco beauty co-designed by a female architect way back in 1929. A collateral victim of one of the worst terrorist attacks on U.S. soil. An abbey church on a now defunct college campus. Visiting churches in Oklahoma proved to be a highly unusual experience. More than just beautiful structures, these houses of worship are packed with some truly fascinating stories. Read about the top five churches in Oklahoma >


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History and Mystery at The Commonwealth

The Commonwealth, Richmond, VirginiaFor a carless week in Richmond, Virginia, I wanted a hotel centrally located to most of what I planned to see that I could reach by walking. I found it in the 110-year-old The Commonwealth, in the heart of downtown. I found it to be friendly, truly convenient, and quite comfortable. What I didn’t expect to find, however, was a series of supernatural occurrences that exceeded the parameters of normal hotel room idiosyncrasies and kept my stay here an ongoing guessing game of what would happen next. Read about it >


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Pub Grub Done Right

Southern Railway Taphouse, Richmond, VirginiaI had just taken a one-mile late-afternoon walk along the old canal in Richmond, Virginia, now transformed from an abandoned industrial hub to a quiet pedestrian walkway where you can still see glimpses of the manmade canal’s heyday when it spurred the city’s economic growth. Up the stairs to street level, I began to search for a dinner spot, in the mood for comfort food. I quickly found it in the sole survivor of a mostly demolished freight depot that shut down in the 1980s at Southern Railway Taphouse. Read about it >


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Comfort Food Without the Wrong Kind of Spirits

Rueger's, Richmond, VirginiaI was trying to determine if my hotel in Richmond, Virginia—the Commonwealth—was haunted or not. Drawers that opened by themselves, toilet bowls that never flushed the same way twice, lights turned on after I switched them off earlier in the day, an air conditioner that continued to click on and off after I unplugged it from the wall. The Commonwealth doesn’t bill itself as haunted, but I wouldn’t be surprised if the 110-year-old hotel in this terrifically historic city has a few supernatural things lurking about. Fortunately, none of them showed up during my dinner at the hotel’s restaurant, Rueger’s, so you can enjoy your meal where the only spirits come in a glass. Read about it >


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Northern Italian in the Southern United States

La Grotta, Richmond, VirginiaSometimes you just happen upon a restaurant that beckons you. Here in Richmond, Virginia, I was admiring the four-story Art Deco building that used to be the flagship location of Miller & Rhoads Department Store when I noticed that much of the ground floor was now given over to La Grotta, an inviting Northern Italian restaurant that left no choice as to where I would be having dinner. Read about it >