Stephen Travels


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A French Favorite in the Heart of Luxembourg

La Lorraine, LuxembourgPlace d’Armes in the heart of Luxembourg City was electric. With packed restaurants lining two sides of the square, overflowing into the center with filled-to-capacity outdoor chairs and tables, the whole city seemed to be abuzz with the excitement of excellent dinners and the nighttime marathon that was about to wend its way through. Amid all that, I carved out a window table inside La Lorraine, one of the best French restaurants in Luxembourg. Read about it >


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The Place to Be(er)

Bier Central, Ghent, BelgiumIf you’re a bibulous beer aficionado, Bier Central in Ghent, Belgium, can’t be beat. With 30 draft beers on tap and more than 300 different bottled beers, you can have a different libation almost every day for an entire year. The knowledgeable beer sommeliers make well-educated recommendations for which beer pairs best with your meal. So, between your Flemish food and your Belgian brews, you’re guaranteed to have a memorable visit here. Read about it >


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A Grand Café, Indeed

Grand Cafe, Luxembourg City

Place d’Armes in the heart of Luxembourg City was crowded, its restaurants overflowing at dinnertime. I was attracted to the fine tilework between the first and second floors of Grand Café, proclaiming its name, location, and address. I was also attracted to the posted menu, highly tempting for carnivores, but not exclusively. Read about it >


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A Tuscan Villa for a Transcendent Vacation

Villa Carpineto, Castellina in Chianti, Italy

Spending a week in a Tuscan villa is one of those dreamy concepts that you hope to transform into a reality one day. Fortunately, I was able to do just that when I convinced my family to spend a couple of weeks in Italy to celebrate my parents’ 50th anniversary. We spent our first week at a villa in Piedmont, and now we were about to enjoy our second week in one of Italy’s most romantic regions, at Villa Carpineto in the Tuscan town of Castellina in Chianti. Read about it >


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Viva La Villa in Piedmont

Villa Cascina Martinenga, Cereseto, Italy

My motivations were, admittedly, selfish: I had been wanting to rent a vacation villa in Italy for years, but, for reasons beyond my comprehension, no one I knew shared that interest. So, when my parents’ 50th anniversary rolled around, I cloaked my desire in a proposal to celebrate their life milestone with them and some other family members in Italy for a couple of weeks. There was rapid buy-in, and I was soon planning a two-week journey for seven people, which began with a week at Villa Cascina Martinenga in the small town of Cereseto in Piedmont. Read about it >


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A Meal With a View

Beer, Brasserie Rozenhoedkaai, Bruges, BelgiumUnlike the quiet location of Frans Restaurant where I had lunch the day before, Brasserie Rozenhoedkaai is right in bustling tourist central in the historic medieval core of Bruges, Belgium. Both are impossibly romantic—the former along the banks of the Lake of Love, the latter at a bend of a canal that’s one of the most photographed spots in the city. While you can watch swans and geese glide by at the first, at Brasserie Rozenhoedkaai you’ll be watching a steady flow of tourists becoming just as beguiled with this city as you are, all while enjoying a lovely meal. Read about it >


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A Fantastical Palace for a Portuguese Artist-King

National Palace of Pena, Sintra, PortugalDue to massive crowds, said every source I checked, avoid the city of Sintra, Portugal, on the weekends. Avoid the city on Mondays, they advised, when, again, it’s swamped with tourists, now because the museums in nearby Lisbon are closed. So, I went on a Thursday. Result? It didn’t matter. The National Palace of Pena—former summer home of Portuguese royalty, starting with King Ferdinand II—was jam-packed with people. But who can blame them? It’s the number-one tourist sight in Portugal, and deservedly so. Read about it >


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Live Like Royalty in a Hotel Owned by a Baron

Le Plaza Hotel, Brussels, BelgiumWhen a baron and baroness own a hotel, you can much pretty rest assured that you’re going to be treated to a good deal of luxury. At Le Plaza Hotel, that comes in the form of spacious and immaculately kept rooms, a giant breakfast spread, attentive service, and architectural grandeur. And for a very affordable price, I upgraded to a junior suite in one of the last independent hotels in Brussels as well as one of its oldest and most historic. Read about it >


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Nearly 200 Years of Food and Drinks in Luxembourg City

Ennert de Steiler, Luxembourg CityThe oldest eating establishment in Luxembourg? Of course I had to go there. I found it along one side of a square that leads to St. Michael’s Church and the bridge that accesses the historic Bock Casemates. Since 1842, Ënnert de Steiler has been serving up beer, mixed drinks, and generous portions of food in a building that predates it by nearly 500 years. Read about it >


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Eating Local in Luxembourg

Um Dierfgen, LuxembourgI headed past the Ducal Palace in Luxembourg City for just a couple of blocks and arrived at my destination. I was hunting for a restaurant with traditional Luxembourgish dishes, and Um Dierfgen was touted as one of the best. I easily located the beige building flying the national flag and entered the refined rustic interior, and I quickly learned that the restaurant’s excellent reputation was well-earned. Read about it >