The Buffalo Savings Bank building, in downtown Buffalo, New York, is always pretty: during the day, or when it warms up with the setting sun in the evening, or when the inside lights glow through giant arched windows at night. That was impressive enough, but when I stepped inside to take a look, it quickly became one of my favorite bank buildings in the world. Read about it >
Author Archives: stephentravels
Snack Time
At some point during the day, you’re feeling peckish. It’s too early or late for a full meal, but you want something to tide you over while you go on the next hike or visit the next cathedral. For me, these unanticipated little hunger pangs occur suddenly, and that’s when I just start looking around for whatever’s at hand that seems like it would fit the bill. In this way, I’ve discovered some local places that I easily would have overlooked—and that I heartily recommend. Read about them >
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Underrated Zagreb’s Best Buildings
With good reason, visitors to Croatia flock to and concentrate on its gorgeous Adriatic coast and such unmistakable cities as Split and Dubrovnik. But there’s more to this country than its enviable coastline, verdant islands, and pristine beaches. A simple detour east brought me to Zagreb, one of the most underrated capitals in Europe and one of its most surprising, filled with great (and uncrowded) restaurants, fun markets, tons of museums, and striking architecture. Read about the top five buildings in Zagreb >
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Back to Basics at Café Leffe
The rain had been falling on and off all day, an ongoing source of irritation as one struggles with map, camera, and umbrella. By the end of the unseasonably chilly day in Brussels, I was ready for solid, straightforward comfort food as close as possible to my hotel. I was staying at 9Hotel Sablon in the Sablon neighborhood, and just around the corner, at the end of the cobblestone Place du Grand Sablon, I found what I was looking for at Café Leffe. Read about it >
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Charming Canalside Accommodations in Bruges
With its medieval glories, seductive canals, and the seemingly always-present mouthwatering aromas of chocolate and waffles in the air, Bruges, Belgium, boasts an undeniable appeal for visitors. That’s both good and bad—increased tourism has resurrected the city and its economy, but it’s also edging toward the point of becoming over-touristed, especially during the summer. Fortunately, once you head away from the bull’s-eye tourist hotspots in the city’s main squares and along the most photographed canals, you can experience a quieter Bruges that holds its own special allure. One of the best ways to enjoy that is by staying at Hotel Ter Duinen, close enough to the city’s main attractions via a 15-minute walk or convenient bus ride, yet removed enough to envelope you in the undisturbed tranquility of one of Europe’s best-preserved cities. Read about it >
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Caribbean Dreamin’
My first trip to the Caribbean was to St. Martin, which also included a high-speed catamaran to St. Barts and a slow ferry with airplane passenger seats to Anguilla. My second was aboard a Royal Caribbean cruise ship that called at half a dozen islands. Since then, I’ve returned to the Caribbean multiple times, always to different islands, each with its own personality and vibe, all with outstanding beaches, friendly locals, terrific food, and interesting sights. It remains my go-to vacation spot when I want a vacation away from my frenetic trips elsewhere. Read about the top five Caribbean islands >
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Tile Style
Tile art is a common feature throughout the Mediterranean, and Lisbon has the best museum exclusively dedicated to it. After only a couple of days in the Portuguese capital, I knew I had to check it out. Throughout the city, and, indeed, the entire country, you’ll see this art form, called azulejo, everywhere, from the tiniest trinkets to the walls of the parrot house in Lisbon, from huge religious panels on the outsides of churches to grand historical scenes in São Bento railway station in Porto. And the National Tile Museum explains it all to you through its spectacular collection. Read about it >
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Once Bitten, Twice Shy: How a Restaurant in Richmond Redeemed Ethiopian Food for Me
I had eaten Ethiopian food only once, in Washington, D.C. (often ranked as one of the best U.S. cities for this cuisine), and, frankly, it was gross. But that was three decades ago, so when I came across Addis Ethiopian Restaurant in Richmond, Virginia, I was eager (and a bit apprehensive) to give it a second chance to cure my aversion. Read about it >
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Oklahoma’s Churches Are More Than OK
Adolf Hitler in stained glass. Dogs attending services. An Art Deco beauty co-designed by a female architect way back in 1929. A collateral victim of one of the worst terrorist attacks on U.S. soil. An abbey church on a now defunct college campus. Visiting churches in Oklahoma proved to be a highly unusual experience. More than just beautiful structures, these houses of worship are packed with some truly fascinating stories. Read about the top five churches in Oklahoma >
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History and Mystery at The Commonwealth
For a carless week in Richmond, Virginia, I wanted a hotel centrally located to most of what I planned to see that I could reach by walking. I found it in the 110-year-old The Commonwealth, in the heart of downtown. I found it to be friendly, truly convenient, and quite comfortable. What I didn’t expect to find, however, was a series of supernatural occurrences that exceeded the parameters of normal hotel room idiosyncrasies and kept my stay here an ongoing guessing game of what would happen next. Read about it >
Stephen Travels 