Stephen Travels


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Good Things, Small Packages: New Zealand’s Abel Tasman National Park

Abel Tasman National Park, New ZealandHailing a taxi to a national park seemed like an odd thing to do. Especially a water taxi. But in New Zealand, sometimes odd is normal. And, in this case, odd was better, too. An approach by water to Abel Tasman National Park set the tone for a terrific hike through some unspoiled nature in one of the world’s best countries for undisturbed environments. Read more >


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Venetian All Stars at the Scuola Grande di San Rocco

The Miracle of Manna

The Miracle of Manna, circa 1577, is one of Tintoretto’s masterful oil paintings covering the ceiling.

A chance sighting of an advertisement for an upcoming concert in Venice prompted me to spontaneously purchase a ticket. Simple enough. But when the evening of the concert arrived, I ended up in one of the most lavish interiors in one of my favorite cities, surrounded by incomparable works of art by one of my favorite artists (a Venetian native), listening to my favorite piece of classical music (by another Venetian native) being performed by a Venetian ensemble. Such buona fortuna is a traveler’s coveted nirvana, a rarely achieved alignment of all the right stars that I still treasure. Read more about it >


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Comfort and Character at the Hotel del Antiguo Convento in Salta, Argentina

Hotel del Antiguo Convento, Salta, ArgentinaYou’ve spent the day roaming the engaging streets of Salta, Argentina, or perhaps exploring the fascinating landscapes outside of town. You went out to dinner late, as is the local tradition, and hopefully had a glass or two of some fantastic Argentine Malbec. What you want most now is a comfortable, clean, convenient, and charming lodging to rest your weary but contented head. And that’s exactly what you’ll find when you check in to the Hotel del Antiguo Convento. Read more >


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The Best Ways to Spend Some Time in Bismarck, North Dakota

Keelboat Park, Bismarck, North DakotaOf all the people I know who have gone to Bismarck (a number that is, quite truthfully, very tiny), none intended to have a wild, rollicking, what-happens-there-stays-there time. The capital of North Dakota is calm and quiet, and the residents seem to like it that way. So, if you’re seeking the flash of, say, Minneapolis, you won’t find it here, even though the city has been growing by double-digit percentages every decade since 1880. But if you live a frenetic lifestyle and want a shift of gears, and if you remain observant, you’ll find some lovely gems. Read more about the top five things to see and do in Bismarck >


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Copenhagen’s Tivoli Gardens: An Amusement Park for All Ages

Tivoli Gardens, Copenhagen, DenmarkOne of Copenhagen’s most visited attractions has a multiple personality…well, I would hardly call it a disorder. In fact, it’s the complete opposite. A multiple personality salubrity, perhaps? Tivoli Gardens is every child’s fantasy, a panoply of diversions for teenagers, and a fanciful urban oasis for adults. At night, lovers inevitably grow all saccharine amid the fairytale lighting, and travelers of every age will be enthralled by an amusement park smack in the middle of one of Scandinavia’s largest cities. Read more about this venue that has something for everyone >


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Appreciating Milwaukee’s Best Without the Buzz

City Hall, Milwaukee, WisconsinMilwaukee’s sudsy past — when breweries such as Miller, Pabst, and Schlitz were filling up millions of barrels of beer every year, and the titular characters in Laverne & Shirley worked as bottlecappers in a brewery — has given way to a less foamy present (although it remains one of the best places to grab a cold one). The city’s Major League Baseball team’s name still conjures up those days of countless brewers, but the old “Beer Capital of the World” offers visitors so much more than a refreshing pint. From a museum of Harley-Davidson motorcycles to countless ethnic street fairs to one of the world’s largest music festivals, Milwaukee proved to be one pleasant surprise after another. These are my top five things to see and do in Wisconsin’s largest city >


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Ljubljana’s Very Special Circular Square

Triple Bridge, LjubljanaIt may not be able to boast the size of Red Square in Moscow or Beijing’s Tiananmen Square, the unending urban pulse of Times Square in New York, or the fame of London’s Trafalgar Square, but for pure charm and visual appeal, Prešeren Square in the heart of Ljubljana, Slovenia, ranks among the best. There’s something here for everyone, no matter what your interests — history, food, nature, romance, architecture, shopping, religion. It’s the de facto meeting point for the city’s residents and visitors alike, whether they’re here to attend a festival or a political rally, meet friends or a date, or just stop and rest for a bit in an utterly engaging space and admire one of the world’s top five bridges. Read more about why you should spend some time here >


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Old World Ambience at Helena’s Sanders Bed & Breakfast

Sanders B&B, Helena, MontanaWhen I parked my rental car in front of The Sanders Bed & Breakfast in Helena, Montana, I knew I wouldn’t be returning to it for a few days. I had arrived in a handsome, leafy, residential district in the state’s capital — an area that demands to be explored by foot, inviting you on long walks past impressive homes, historic sites, and some noteworthy restaurants. And when you’re ready to call it a day, The Sanders, more than 100 years old, welcomes you back with snacks, pleasant conversation, and marvelous accommodations from a bygone era. Read more >


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The Best of Zagreb, Croatia

Mirogoj Cemetery, Zagreb, CroatiaWith good reason, visitors to Croatia flock to and concentrate on its gorgeous Adriatic coast and such unmistakable cities as Split and Dubrovnik. But there’s more to this country than its enviable coastline, verdant islands, and pristine beaches. A simple detour east brings you to Zagreb, one of the most underrated capitals in Europe and one of its most surprising. Read more about the top five things to see and do in Zagreb >


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A Scandinavian Mansion on the Shore of Lake Tahoe, California

Vikingsholm, Emerald Bay, Lake Tahoe, CaliforniaMy loop around Lake Tahoe on the California-Nevada border included everything I expected — beautiful beaches, fiery sunsets, a couple of historic sites, a little gambling, and views of this gorgeous body of water. What I didn’t expect was Vikingsholm, one of the finest examples of Scandinavian architecture in the Western Hemisphere, conceived of by a senior citizen widow and created by a Swedish architect. Read more >