Stephen Travels


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Dublin’s Buildings of Distinction

General Post Office, Dublin, IrelandI began my three-week trip to Ireland, naturally enough, in Dublin, before renting a car and heading out to see the rest of the Emerald Isle. Here in the Irish capital, I caught an Oscar Wilde play, indulged in pints of Guinness, touched a real skeleton for luck, and came across three of the country’s best churches, one of the world’s best baptismal fonts, and one of the world’s most atmospheric restaurants. All of the latter were housed in some of the city’s finest structures that go back centuries and centuries and are just as beautiful today as they were then. Read about the top five buildings in Dublin >


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Up, Up, and a Wow!

Ceiling, Saint Fin Barre's Cathedral, Cork, IrelandWhile lying on my back in my apartment and fighting off a mild case of COVID, I had plenty of time to stare at my ceilings—outdated, white, popcorn ceilings with a little crack way over there in the corner. In between mental debates over whether I should have them smoothed over and redone, I also had an abundance of time to reflect on other ceilings I’ve seen around the world—outrageously beautiful works of art that will make you want to look up and spend hours marveling over their perfection. Read about the top five ceilings >


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Marvelous Madison

Thai Pavilion, Olbrich Gardens, Madison, WisconsinOften ranked as one of the most livable cities in the United States, Madison, Wisconsin, gets it very right, which catapults onto a short list of places I’d like to live: a gorgeous setting between two lakes, a lively vibe generated from a massive university and as the state capital, plenty of cultural venues, and a smart restriction on the height of its skyline, limited to no more than 1,032’ for all structures within a mile of the state capitol in order to preserve the view of that building from most parts of the city. That means it’s a low-rise city, and it’s filled with terrific edifices of both historic importance and aesthetic glory. Read about the top five buildings in Madison, Wisconsin >


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Arkansas’ Attractive Architecture

Army-Navy Hospital, Hot Springs, ArkansasI wasn’t planning on spending much time in Arkansas’ cities. I was there to take part in the state’s wonderful nature, at its most irresistible during the fall foliage season. I was staying in Hot Springs more for its central location and proximity to Hot Springs National Park than for its built-up environment. How surprised I was, however, when I came upon some outstanding edifices that wonderfully complemented all my time out in the woods and on lakes. Read about the top five buildings in Arkansas >


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When Your College Dorm Used to Be a Hotel for the Super Rich

Dining Room, Flagler CollegeOn my way to a wedding farther south in Florida, I stopped for a few days in St. Augustine, one of that spectacular triumvirate of architecturally grand cities in the Southeast. I had already been to Charleston, South Carolina, and I’ve been to Savannah, Georgia, three times. St. Augustine, the oldest city in the United States (founded in 1565), was the standout, and I was thrilled to finally visit it. One of its many highlights is the incredible main building of Flagler College. Formerly a majestic hotel, it now functions mostly as a dorm. It’s still so beautiful that it offers tours not only to prospective students, but to the general public, and it’s filled with an abundance of treats and secrets. Read about it >


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The Best Buildings in Portland, Oregon

The Old Church, Portland, OregonKnown for its focus on urban planning, Portland, Oregon, takes its architecture seriously. It’s second only to Chicago in the number of LEED-accredited “green buildings” in the United States and is steadfast in preserving and repurposing older buildings. Height restrictions on new construction preserve views of Mt. Hood. But as I roamed around this likable city, I found that the most impressive buildings were those that predated the concept of urban planning. Read about the top five buildings in Portland >


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Music in the Sky: The World’s Best Bell Towers

Cathedral of St. Domnius, SplitI’ve had the opportunity to ring the bells at the Church of St. Anne Shandon in Cork, Ireland, and at the Church of the Assumption on an island in Lake Bled, Slovenia. But, for the most part, my experiences with bell towers have been restricted to admiring their vertical beauty and listening to their heavenly music, and that’s rewarding enough. No matter their purpose, from cheerful chimes on college campuses to somber tolling marking a funeral, bell towers make for striking exclamation points in a cityscape. Read about the top five bell towers >


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An Architectural Adventure in Helena, Montana

Former First National Bank, Helena, MontanaMidway through Big Sky Country, between Glacier National Park and Yellowstone National Park, I took a little urban break in Helena. To me, the capital of Montana felt less urban than suburban. Strolling around this open, breathable city is a delight, from the pedestrian mall downtown to the spectacular Mansion District, one of the best historic districts in the United States, offering some memorable architectural surprises. Read about the top five buildings in Helena >


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Architectural Stars in the North Star State

Landmark Center, St. Paul, MinnesotaI’ve been to Minnesota three times—once on a lark in late autumn when an unexpected snowstorm necessitated purchases of gloves and hats, once on a quick business trip to do a press check at a former job, and once as a starting point for a two-week romp around the Dakotas. None of them were long enough to completely immerse myself in the 12th-largest state in the United States, yet they did afford me the opportunity to check out some of the state’s more than 10,000 lakes as well as its striking architecture. Read about the top five buildings in Minnesota >


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Holy Harrisburg!

St. Lawrence Catholic Church, Harrisburg, PennsylvaniaHarrisburg was a one-day stopover on my drive between Indianapolis and my home in New York. I had always wanted to see the Pennsylvania state capitol, and after checking in to the wonderful Manor on Front, I strolled along the Susquehanna River to my destination. The capitol’s massive green dome is certainly impressive, but so is the surprising number of lovely churches packed into a relatively small downtown. Read about the top five churches in Harrisburg, Pennsylvania >