Stephen Travels


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Arkansas’ Attractive Architecture

Army-Navy Hospital, Hot Springs, ArkansasI wasn’t planning on spending much time in Arkansas’ cities. I was there to take part in the state’s wonderful nature, at its most irresistible during the fall foliage season. I was staying in Hot Springs more for its central location and proximity to Hot Springs National Park than for its built-up environment. How surprised I was, however, when I came upon some outstanding edifices that wonderfully complemented all my time out in the woods and on lakes. Read about the top five buildings in Arkansas >


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When Your College Dorm Used to Be a Hotel for the Super Rich

Dining Room, Flagler CollegeOn my way to a wedding farther south in Florida, I stopped for a few days in St. Augustine, one of that spectacular triumvirate of architecturally grand cities in the Southeast. I had already been to Charleston, South Carolina, and I’ve been to Savannah, Georgia, three times. St. Augustine, the oldest city in the United States (founded in 1565), was the standout, and I was thrilled to finally visit it. One of its many highlights is the incredible main building of Flagler College. Formerly a majestic hotel, it now functions mostly as a dorm. It’s still so beautiful that it offers tours not only to prospective students, but to the general public, and it’s filled with an abundance of treats and secrets. Read about it >


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The Best Buildings in Portland, Oregon

The Old Church, Portland, OregonKnown for its focus on urban planning, Portland, Oregon, takes its architecture seriously. It’s second only to Chicago in the number of LEED-accredited “green buildings” in the United States and is steadfast in preserving and repurposing older buildings. Height restrictions on new construction preserve views of Mt. Hood. But as I roamed around this likable city, I found that the most impressive buildings were those that predated the concept of urban planning. Read about the top five buildings in Portland >


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Music in the Sky: The World’s Best Bell Towers

Cathedral of St. Domnius, SplitI’ve had the opportunity to ring the bells at the Church of St. Anne Shandon in Cork, Ireland, and at the Church of the Assumption on an island in Lake Bled, Slovenia. But, for the most part, my experiences with bell towers have been restricted to admiring their vertical beauty and listening to their heavenly music, and that’s rewarding enough. No matter their purpose, from cheerful chimes on college campuses to somber tolling marking a funeral, bell towers make for striking exclamation points in a cityscape. Read about the top five bell towers >


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California Is Golden for Many Reasons

Old Sacramento, CaliforniaThe third-largest state in the United States—and arguably the most famed, iconic, referenced, idealized, and vilified—California has always been many things to many people, from the 300,000 indigenous people who lived here before the Europeans showed up, to miners with gold fever who flocked here in the mid-1800s, to drought-weary Okies looking for salvation during the Dust Bowl era of the 1930s. Now, even if you’re not an aspiring actress lured by the glitz of Hollywood, or a granola or surfer dude looking to live off the grid, the Golden State and its vast array of attractions will lure you here and inevitably make an indelible impression upon you. Read about the top five things to see and do in California >


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An Architectural Adventure in Helena, Montana

Former First National Bank, Helena, MontanaMidway through Big Sky Country, between Glacier National Park and Yellowstone National Park, I took a little urban break in Helena. To me, the capital of Montana felt less urban than suburban. Strolling around this open, breathable city is a delight, from the pedestrian mall downtown to the spectacular Mansion District, one of the best historic districts in the United States, offering some memorable architectural surprises. Read about the top five buildings in Helena >


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Architectural Stars in the North Star State

Landmark Center, St. Paul, MinnesotaI’ve been to Minnesota three times—once on a lark in late autumn when an unexpected snowstorm necessitated purchases of gloves and hats, once on a quick business trip to do a press check at a former job, and once as a starting point for a two-week romp around the Dakotas. None of them were long enough to completely immerse myself in the 12th-largest state in the United States, yet they did afford me the opportunity to check out some of the state’s more than 10,000 lakes as well as its striking architecture. Read about the top five buildings in Minnesota >


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Hell on Earth

Painting of Hell, Historical Museum of Gdansk, PolandIt’s as hot as hell. People from Arizona to Austin to Athens have all been saying it this summer. Again. Climate change has been setting our world on fire for years, and comparisons to that underworld of eternal heat and suffering are getting more and more realistic. But what of that actual place reserved, if you believe it, for unrepentant sinners? No one knows what it looks like (even if you visit Hell on Grand Cayman). But artists have imagined Hell in the most terrifying ways for centuries—and they’re enough to, well, scare the hell out of you while you’re still here on Earth. Read about the top five depictions of Hell >


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Holy Harrisburg!

St. Lawrence Catholic Church, Harrisburg, PennsylvaniaHarrisburg was a one-day stopover on my drive between Indianapolis and my home in New York. I had always wanted to see the Pennsylvania state capitol, and after checking in to the wonderful Manor on Front, I strolled along the Susquehanna River to my destination. The capitol’s massive green dome is certainly impressive, but so is the surprising number of lovely churches packed into a relatively small downtown. Read about the top five churches in Harrisburg, Pennsylvania >


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Warsaw Saw War—and Then Rebuilt Its Churches as if Nothing Had Happened

St. Kazimierz Church, Warsaw, PolandI wasn’t surprised by the number and the beauty of the churches in the overwhelmingly Catholic city of Warsaw, Poland, where three-quarters of the population of 1.8 million identify as Roman Catholic. I was surprised, however, by how many of them had been obliterated during World War II and then rebuilt. Some took on a simpler variation of the original, but many were restored to their baroque, rococo, and neoclassical glory. Read about the top five churches in Warsaw >