Of all the cities I was visiting, I knew the least (well, virtually nothing) about Freiburg, but I included it on my itinerary because I read that it had one of the best Christmas markets in Germany. So, with no points of reference and no notions of what the city would be like, I boarded the train to Freiburg. As it would turn out, the markets didn’t seem to exceed any of the others I had seen so far (they were just as delightful), but, oh, how I loved this city. Read more >
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Have Yourself a Merry German Christmas: Day 2
Christ Child figures welcome visitors to the Christkindlesmarkt.
Famous for its eponymous trials, a string of military tribunals conducted by the Allied forces after World War II that involved the prosecution of prominent members of the Nazi machine who participated in the Holocaust and other war crimes, Nuremberg always seems to be conjoined with Judgment at, that classic 1961 all-star film with Spencer Tracy, Burt Lancaster, Montgomery Clift, Judy Garland, William Shatner, Richard Widmark, Maximilian Schell, and the Berlin-born Marlene Dietrich. But this 1,000-year-old city boasts so much more than that isolated event, from gorgeous churches to an imperial castle to an outstanding opera house — and Christmas markets that date back to 1628. Read more >
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Have Yourself a Merry German Christmas: Day 1
Ever since I was a child, the Christmas markets in Germany held a special appeal for me. For some inexplicable reason, they seemed to epitomize this most festive holiday, more so than those in any other country. I knew that, someday, I would have to see them. Several decades later, I made the dream a reality. After careful research about the cities with the best markets, I had to select a central location from which I could make easy day trips to other cities over the course of one week, traveling by train and sparing myself the hassle of changing hotels every night. I pinpointed Frankfurt as my home for seven days. But the city was more than just my base. It was my introduction to a centuries-old tradition that exceeded all my expectations and made me conclude that this is how you must spend some time in December. Read more >
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Party of Five: The Best Plazas in Mendoza, Argentina
Renowned as a base for some unparalleled hiking opportunities in the Andes Mountains and for the vineyards surrounding it that produce, among other wines, the full-bodied Malbec, the city of Mendoza in western Argentina shouldn’t be overlooked as a destination in and of itself — and I’m glad I devoted some time to staying in town. In many ways, such as its abundance of sidewalk trees, it’s like no other city in Argentina. One of its delightful highlights are the five plazas in the heart of Mendoza — an X-shaped arrangement of green oases in a city that’s already fairly leafy. Each one of this quintet of plazas honors a key player, whether it’s a person or a country, in the nation’s history, and each is chock full of attractions that impressed me with its beauty and thoughtfulness. Read more >
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When Orange Is More Than Your Morning Juice
For those of us who live in certain climates, autumn brings a joyful change of season, when comfortably brisk days replace oppressive summer heat, and green foliage gives way to all-too-brief displays of flashy colors — especially a vibrant orange. If you don’t reside in a locale that’s blessed with this annual switch, you can get your fix of orange with an intricately carved jack-o-lantern or a Cincinnati Bengals game. And if you’re not privy to any of this, there are still plenty of oranges around the world that will capture your attention. Read more about my top five oranges >
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The Best Clocks in the World Tell More Than Time
When you fall back this weekend, take a good look at the clock or wristwatch you’re adjusting. Is it a strictly functional device that displays the inexorable march of time? Or is it a work of art? Clocks have come a long way since sundials and do more than merely inform you that you have arrived early at an airport or overslept again. The best ones also tell great stories — or have great stories told about them. Read more about the top five clocks in the world >
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The Best Ways to Spend Some Time in Bismarck, North Dakota
Of all the people I know who have gone to Bismarck (a number that is, quite truthfully, very tiny), none intended to have a wild, rollicking, what-happens-there-stays-there time. The capital of North Dakota is calm and quiet, and the residents seem to like it that way. So, if you’re seeking the flash of, say, Minneapolis, you won’t find it here, even though the city has been growing by double-digit percentages every decade since 1880. But if you live a frenetic lifestyle and want a shift of gears, and if you remain observant, you’ll find some lovely gems. Read more about the top five things to see and do in Bismarck >
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Copenhagen’s Tivoli Gardens: An Amusement Park for All Ages
One of Copenhagen’s most visited attractions has a multiple personality…well, I would hardly call it a disorder. In fact, it’s the complete opposite. A multiple personality salubrity, perhaps? Tivoli Gardens is every child’s fantasy, a panoply of diversions for teenagers, and a fanciful urban oasis for adults. At night, lovers inevitably grow all saccharine amid the fairytale lighting, and travelers of every age will be enthralled by an amusement park smack in the middle of one of Scandinavia’s largest cities. Read more about this venue that has something for everyone >
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Appreciating Milwaukee’s Best Without the Buzz
Milwaukee’s sudsy past — when breweries such as Miller, Pabst, and Schlitz were filling up millions of barrels of beer every year, and the titular characters in Laverne & Shirley worked as bottlecappers in a brewery — has given way to a less foamy present (although it remains one of the best places to grab a cold one). The city’s Major League Baseball team’s name still conjures up those days of countless brewers, but the old “Beer Capital of the World” offers visitors so much more than a refreshing pint. From a museum of Harley-Davidson motorcycles to countless ethnic street fairs to one of the world’s largest music festivals, Milwaukee proved to be one pleasant surprise after another. These are my top five things to see and do in Wisconsin’s largest city >
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Five Things You’ll Love to Do in Dublin, Ireland
Every March 17, the world is invited to be Irish in honor of St. Patrick, the fifth-century missionary and bishop who brought Christianity to Ireland and reputedly rid the entire island of snakes. Whether you’re celebrating by attending a parade, slow-cooking some corned beef and cabbage, toasting this rich heritage with a shot of Jameson’s Irish whiskey, or simply donning something green, this is the day to appreciate everything the Emerald Isle has to offer. If you’re in Dublin on this holiday, you’ll be lucky to be part of the annual celebrations. But even if you miss it, this lively city offers plenty for the other 364 days of the year. Read more about my top five things to see and do in Dublin >
Stephen Travels 