Having strolled along the artificial canals, complete with gondolas and gondoliers, inside The Venetian Resort, and past some of the recreated iconic buildings of Venice, I was definitely in the mood for something Italian for dinner. Fortunately, The Venetian is also home to Matteo’s Ristorante Italiano.

I took a seat to the strains of some jazzy music, next to a series of shelves filled with plants that separate the rooms. The design of the sconces complemented that of the mirrors, and the chandeliers reminded me of 1930s ocean liners. With mini-brick flooring and a bar with teal-colored lighting, Matteo’s feels like an upscale trattoria. To this setting, the restaurateur and the chef have created menus that reflect their childhood memories of Italy, incorporating seasonal, fresh, and locally sourced ingredients into recipes from Northern Italy that have been passed down for generations, infused with modern innovations. It’s a highly successful combination.

Try This: Start with a generous mixed-green salad, complete with escarole, endive, and friseé, scattered with apples, dates, and orange gorgonzola, and sprinkled with a honey-lemon vinaigrette. For an entrée, I tried a pasta with which I was unfamiliar, a Lombardy specialty called casonzei, a stuffed pasta akin to ravioli, but with a unique shape. Matteo’s are filled with pork and veal, and they’re served with pancetta, parmigiana reggiano, and a sage brown butter—and they’re outstanding.

 

 

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