When I emerged from the Church of Saint Michael, the building at the end of the little square caught my eye. The four-story edifice featured a triple-arch arcade supporting a terrace with a heavy balustrade, lanterns, high-relief floral panels above the windows, and a niche with religious figures. The people at the tables on the street level seemed to be enjoying their meals and drinks, so I gravitated toward it and soon learned that this was Ënnert de Steiler, the oldest eating establishment in Luxembourg. Housed in a building from 1350, Ënnert de Steiler has been serving beer, cocktails, and pub grub since 1842. I couldn’t resist the history.

I headed upstairs, through the chic lounge, and scored the last table available on the terrace. From this vantage point, I was able to watch over the activity below as people flowed through the little square accessed by six different streets. It’s a delightful view that you’ll savor as much as your meal.

Try This: If you’re not fond of bitter beers and you want something refreshing, try the Battin Fruitée beer, an offering from a Luxembourg brewery that’s been around since 1937; the clear rose color with a light pink head is a surprise, hinting at the cherry flavor. For a good lunch, you can try Luxembourgish potato cakes or sandwiches made with Luxembourgish cheese, or, perhaps, the largest chicken Caesar salad you will ever have, overflowing with iceberg lettuce, chunks of chicken, parmesan shavings, cherry tomatoes, red onions, and a creamy Caesar dressing.

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