Beer. Here.

Whether you come at night, when a young clientele fills in all the spaces at the bar, at the tables, and in the private booths, or during the day, when tourists steadily stream in, Bier Central draws the crowds with its menu of Flemish favorites and a copious selection of beers.

I arrived at lunchtime, a little hungry and a little dizzy from all the surrounding architectural beauty—City Hall, the 14th-century bell tower, the 10th-century St. Bavo Cathedral (and the irresistible chocolate shop a couple of doors down). I took a seat at a poseur table by the window and looked at the crates of beer above the bar, the various beer bottles lined up in every niche, and the long row of beer taps constantly being drawn by the busy bartender.

As I contemplated my server’s recommendations, I had a flashback to my teenage years, thanks to the music selection that was like a soundtrack to the 1980s, with the likes of Neil Diamond, Bette Midler, and Michael McDonald, and the sandwich board in front of the outdoor seating under a cluster of trees asks, “Hello? Is it beer you’re looking for?” beside a chalk-drawn image of Lionel Richie.

While you’re waiting for your meal, use the time wisely and visit the restrooms. Yes, that’s a slightly odd recommendation, but you’ll love the excellent black and white photos of Ghent on the walls as you wash your hands in, of course, a beer barrel sink.

Then, when you’re back at your table, browse through the 120+-page Beer Encyclopedia that provides an overview of Bier Central’s 366 Belgian beers, complete with a picture, description, and alcohol content of each.

Try This: More than two dozen beers are on tap; a good choice is the Gentse Strop (alcohol content: 6.9%), whose name comes with a story: Strop is Dutch for “noose”—a reference to the rebellious citizens of Ghent whose dignitaries, in 1540, were forced by Emperor Charles V (a Ghent native) to wear a noose around their neck to punish them for opposing his reign. This strong blond beer with a firm white head blends perfectly with the complementary selection of nuts. For your meal, tuck into a traditional Belgian dish, the waterzooi, which originated in Ghent. It’s a delicious chicken chowder with boiled potatoes, carrots, and onions, in a pool of vegetable broth thickened with cream and egg yolks. It’s served with a bucket of pomme frites with a little cup of mayonnaise for dipping.

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